Guide to Taking Care of Indoor Plants

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Indoor plants are a wonderful way to enhance the beauty of your home. Check out more pictures
of house plants.

You can bring the beauty and freshness of plants indoors with house plants. In this article, we will discuss topics such as lighting, watering, humidity, temperature, fertilizing, potting, grooming, propagating, decorating, preventing pests and diseases, and caring for indoor plants while on vacation.

Studies show that having living plants around us can improve our physical and mental well-being, making us calmer, more efficient, and more satisfied with our lives. Additionally, green plants can filter common pollutants from the air. Millions of indoor plants are sold each year, and they can be found in nurseries, plant stores, supermarkets, and department stores.

Growing indoor plants is easier than you may think, and with the right techniques, anyone can succeed. Learn about lighting for indoor plants in the next section.

Want to learn about different types of indoor plants? Check out these categories:

  • Indoor Plants
  • Full Sun Indoor Plants
  • Bright Light Indoor Plants
  • Filtered Light Indoor Plants
  • Light Shade Indoor Plants
  • Hanging Basket Indoor Plants
  • Floor Plant Indoor Plants
  • Table Plant Indoor Plants
  • Terrarium Plant Indoor Plants
  • Very Easy Indoor Plants
  • Easy Indoor Plants
  • Demanding Indoor Plants
  • Temporary Indoor Plants
  • Flowering Indoor Plants
  • Climbing or Trailing Indoor Plants
  • Indoor Plants with Colorful Foliage
  • Fragrant Indoor Plants
  • Gardening

Lighting for Indoor Plants

Plants need light just like animals need food. They absorb light and convert its energy into the sugars and starches they need to grow and thrive. Without sufficient light, no plant can survive.

Indoor plants will show signs of insufficient light by having pale growth and stretching towards the nearest light source. They may also have weak or no flowers and may eventually rot if not watered properly.


Southern exposures receive full sun from late morning to mid-afternoon.

The light requirements of indoor plants vary, and what may seem like a dark corner to a flowering plant may be acceptable to a foliage plant. As long as there is enough light to read by, certain indoor plants can thrive in any condition.

Changes in Light Depending on the Season

The intensity of light that house plants receive varies from season to season. During the winter months, a south-facing window is the best location for most house plants, while during the summer, it may be too intense, and plants should be moved away from hot south or west windows. A north-facing window may not provide enough light for flowering house plants during the winter, but it is perfect for almost every house plant during the summer. It is recommended that you move your house plants from one location to another depending on the season.

Enhancing Natural Light

To increase the intensity of light your house plants receive, you can remove any obstacles that obstruct their path, such as curtains, blinds, or outdoor foliage. Regularly cleaning your windows can also help. Painting nearby walls and furniture in light shades is another easy way to improve light, as they will reflect light rather than absorb it.

Artificial Light

House plants can adapt well to growing under artificial light. However, incandescent lamps even those marketed for plants, produce poor quality light that encourages weak, unhealthy growth. They are only suitable for house plants that receive some natural light. Fluorescent and halogen lamps, on the other hand, produce light that is similar in quality to sunlight, enabling house plants to thrive under them. For optimal results, set artificial light on timers for 12 to 14 hours a day, and ensure that the lamp is far enough away from the plants so that they do not overheat.

Window by Window

The amount of light that windows receive varies from window to window in your home.

  • South Window: This is the brightest exposure, receiving
    full sun from late morning until mid-afternoon, and bright light for the rest of the day. It is suitable for flowering house plants and those from arid climates, such as cacti and succulents. Plants can typically be placed far away from a south-facing window and still receive sufficient light.
  • East Window: This location is typically considered the best for growing house plants. It receives full sun for a brief period in the morning and bright light for the rest of the day. Cooler than a west-facing window, it allows house plants to receive adequate light without overheating. Both foliage and flowering plants thrive in this location.
  • West Window: Like an east-facing window, the west-facing window receives full sun for a part of the day and bright light for the rest. However, many house plants find this spot too hot. Both foliage and flowering plants can thrive here.
  • North Window: House plants in north-facing windows do not receive direct sunlight, but depending on the season, they can receive bright light for a significant portion of the day. Generally, only foliage plants thrive in this location, and even then, they must be grown close to the glass.

The next section will cover how to water your house plants.

Interested in learning about different types of house plants? Check out these articles:

The list contains various types of house plants such as Full Sun House Plants, Bright Light House Plants, Filtered Light House Plants, Light Shade House Plants, Hanging Basket House Plants, Floor Plant House Plants, Table Plant House Plants, Terrarium Plant House Plants, Very Easy House Plants, Easy House Plants, Demanding House Plants, Temporary House Plants, Flowering House Plants, Climbing or Trailing House Plants, House Plants with Colorful Foliage, Fragrant House Plants, and Gardening.

Watering house plants is important to keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet or bone dry. Some plants prefer dry soil entirely between waterings. It is best to water thoroughly and wait until the plant needs water before watering again. Tepid water straight from the tap or overnight standing water can be used for watering. Rainwater is the best choice for plants in areas with hard or artificially softened water.

Plants often collapse dramatically when they need water, but it is best to check the plant every two or three days. Some people check soil color, while others stick a finger into the soil to check moisture. Moisture meters are also available to test water needs. Lifting the pot is also an option as a dry pot will weigh considerably less.

Watering from above is preferred by most people. Water thoroughly until excess moisture runs out of the bottom of the pot. If the plant has dried out entirely, set the pot in water until it soaks up all it can hold. Watering from below is also an option, where the saucer is filled with water and left for 20 minutes before pouring out any excess water.

If you have house plants that require moist soil all the time, wicking can be a solution. You just need a water reservoir like an old margarine container and a piece of yarn. Insert one end of the yarn into the potting mix and push it down into a drainage hole using a knitting needle. Punch a hole in the reservoir’s lid and insert the other end of the yarn into the reservoir. Water the pot from the top once to allow water to soak through the wick. From then on, the plant will absorb water via the wick. Just keep the reservoir filled with water or water and fertilizer solution. This method is perfect for those who are often absent, as wick-watered house plants can go for weeks without watering. A capillary mat can also be used. This can be a commercially available mat or a homemade one. Cut it to fit the saucer or, for a collection of house plants, use a large tray and set the plants directly on the matting. Water the plants from the top first and then keep the mat moist. The plants will absorb water from the matting when they need it. Most plants need humid air to thrive. Thin leaves need more humidity than thick, leathery, or waxy leaves or those covered with hair. Symptoms of dry air include curled leaves, dry leaf tips, and a need for frequent watering. Flower buds are especially susceptible to dry air and may turn brown or simply fall off if humidity is too low. To increase humidity, you can spray house plants with water. The average home’s humidity level is often below 30 percent, yet most house plants prefer humidity levels of at least 40 percent. Many require 60 percent or more. Relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent is probably ideal for both house plants and people. There are different types of house plants based on their light and shade requirements, such as full sun, bright light, filtered light, light shade, hanging basket, floor plant, table plant, terrarium plant, etc.

Dry air can be a persistent issue in some parts of the country, particularly in the arid Southwest. Air conditioning exacerbates the problem by further dehydrating the air during extreme heat. In such areas, it may be necessary to use a humidifier throughout the year.

In regions with frigid winters, humidity levels inside drop during the heating season. This is because the relative humidity of cold outdoor air decreases as it warms up. Some heating systems, such as electric heat, worsen the situation by removing even more humidity from the air. In such cases, a system to compensate for low humidity during the winter months may be necessary.

Air circulation is crucial for plants grown indoors, as it helps to remove excess heat and waste gases and prevents diseases from developing in confined spaces. Adequate air circulation is often present near large windows due to temperature fluctuations between day and night. However, in other areas, such as under plant lights, it is advisable to run a small fan to keep the air moving continuously. Do not aim the fan directly at the plants; just having it in the same room will provide the necessary air circulation.

There are several simple methods of increasing air humidity, such as spraying houseplants with warm water. However, this method is not very effective as the humidity dissipates rapidly. To increase humidity efficiently, repeat the process several times a day. A room humidifier is an excellent solution for raising air humidity. Ensure that the humidifier is refilled regularly. Some modern homes have built-in humidifiers that can be adjusted to the desired level.

A plant humidifier can be quickly constructed by filling a waterproof tray with stones, gravel, or perlite and pouring water over them so that the bottom ones remain submerged in water while the top ones remain dry. Place the plants on one of these pebble trays. The plants will benefit from the additional humidity produced by the water evaporating. By keeping the tray half-filled with water at all times, a perfectly humid microclimate will be maintained.

Grouping houseplants together during the heating season is a simple solution for plants with moderate humidity requirements. Each plant releases humidity through transpiration. A group of plants will generate excellent humidity in the surrounding air.

Delicate houseplants with thin leaves require a humidity level of over 70 percent, which is difficult to achieve in a large room. If maintaining this level of humidity is impossible, a terrarium made from an old aquarium can be the best solution. A glass lid creates a microclimate in which humidity levels rise to almost 100 percent. If water droplets form, open the terrarium slightly for ventilation.

The following section will discuss temperature requirements for houseplants. For more information on houseplants by type, refer to the links provided.

This is a list of types of house plants, including those that thrive in full sun, bright light, filtered light, light shade, hanging baskets, on the floor, on tables, in terrariums, and those that are very easy, easy, demanding, temporary, flowering, climbing or trailing, with colorful foliage, and fragrant. There is also information on temperature control for house plants, with a suggested daytime temperature range of 65° to 75°F (18° to 24°C) and cooler night temperatures for healthier growth. Extreme heat can harm house plants, but increasing ventilation and humidity can help. Subtropical plants may require cooler temperatures, and a mini-greenhouse can be made for this purpose. The article also offers links to learn about house plants by type and fertilizing.

Fertilizing Indoor Plants

Do not mistake fertilizing for feeding as plants derive their energy from light, not fertilizers. Fertilizing without adequate light levels and proper growth can harm plants. Newly bought or repotted indoor plants require a few months without fertilizers to utilize the nutrients already present in their growing mix.


Fertilizing is crucial for plants growing in soilless potting mixes.

Indoor plants need three major elements for healthy growth: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These are always mentioned on fertilizer labels as ratios like 6-12-4, denoting 6% nitrogen, 12% phosphorus, and 4% potassium. Most fertilizers also have minor elements like magnesium, boron, and iron that plants require for growth.

Nitrogen-rich fertilizers (first number) promote healthy and green foliage growth, while phosphorus-rich fertilizers (second number) aid root development and flowering. Potassium-rich fertilizers (third number) reserve energy for plants during their dormant period.

Foliage indoor plants require a fertilizer labeled 30-20-20 for leaf development, and flowering indoor plants require a higher proportion of phosphorus-rich fertilizer like 15-30-15. Most foliage indoor plants do well with all-purpose or high-nitrogen fertilizers, while high phosphorus fertilizers are suitable for flowering indoor plants.

Continuous Feeding

Nowadays, indoor plants are grown in soilless potting mixes that lack nutrients, necessitating regular fertilizing. One way to ensure indoor plants receive adequate fertilizers is to use a continuous feed method.

Take a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer meant for a monthly application and reduce the dosage by four. For instance, if the label recommends mixing one teaspoon per gallon for once a month, mix ¼ teaspoon per gallon for each watering. Once a month, take the plant to the sink and leach it by running clear water through its pot until the excess fertilizer drains out to prevent buildup.

Choosing Fertilizers for Indoor Plants

Ready-to-use liquid fertilizers are convenient but expensive, as they contain water, which you pay for. Water-soluble fertilizers in powder or crystal forms are equally effective but more economical because you add the water. Some prefer slow-release fertilizers for their practicality, available in granule form mixed with soil or spikes and tablets pushed into the potting mix, requiring application once every few months. The fertilizer label will suggest a recommended frequency.

Organic vs. Chemical Fertilizers

Both organic and chemical fertilizers come in various concentrations. Since chemical fertilizers applied to indoor plants do not leach out to the environment, even growers who use organic fertilizers outdoors use chemical ones indoors.

Liquid seaweed is a popular type of organic fertilizer that is applied as a spray on a plant’s leaves. House plants do not require expensive gardening equipment to care for them. Simple kitchen utensils such as a spoon for repotting, scissors for trimming leaves, a sharp knife for taking cuttings, and a recycled window spray bottle for applying pesticides are sufficient. However, a good watering can with a long and narrow spout is the most important tool. The next section discusses potting house plants.

House plants should be repotted at least once a year, preferably in the spring. Fast-growing plants may require repotting two or more times a year. Signs that a plant needs repotting include wilting a few days after watering, threatening to tip over, and a white or yellowish crust on the stem and pot rim. Plants that are difficult or impossible to repot should be top-dressed annually. To repot a plant, tip it upside down and loosen the rootball. Remove up to one-third of the potting mixture, trim any dead or damaged roots, and choose a clean pot no more than one or two sizes larger than the previous one. Pour enough potting mix to bring the plant up to its original height and water thoroughly.

For those interested in learning about house plants by type, there are various types such as Full Sun House Plants, Hanging Basket House Plants, Fragrant House Plants, and Climbing or Trailing House Plants.

When repotting house plants, it is important to keep them away from bright sunlight for a week or two. Hydroculture is a method of growing plants in water using an inert medium such as clay pellets or pebbles as an anchor. Nutrients are supplied through slow-release pellets or tablets and water is added based on a water level indicator. Plastic pots are ideal for plants that require moist soil, while clay pots are better for those that prefer drier soil. All pots should have drainage holes to avoid overwatering. Ready-made all-purpose potting mixes made of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite are suitable for most house plants, while soil-based mixes work well for cacti and succulents. Certain indoor plants, such as cattleya orchids and Venus’s fly-traps, require well-aerated mixes like sphagnum moss or bark chips. Grooming house plants is often neglected, but simple tasks like removing dead leaves can drastically improve their appearance.

Plants have a natural tendency to grow towards the light, which can cause them to become uneven or even fall over. To prevent this, rotate the plant a quarter turn each time it is watered to ensure that it receives light from all sides, resulting in a symmetrical plant.

Cleaning House Plants

It is important to remove any dead or yellowing plant parts as they can attract insects and diseases. Use scissors to trim dying leaves and flowers and tidy up brown leaf tips. To prevent dust and grease from building up and slowing growth, clean the leaves once or twice a year with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water or expose them to a warm rain shower outdoors.

Pruning House Plants

Prune unattractive sections of the house plant without fear, as each cut will result in two new branches, making the plant look fuller than ever. Soft new growth can be pinched to promote branching without leaving a noticeable stub.

Staking House Plants

House plants that are regularly rotated and pruned rarely need staking. If an attractive stem has grown to the point where it can no longer support itself, use a discreet stake, such as bamboo, to prop it up.

For more information on propagating house plants, read on.

Learn about house plants by type:

  • House Plants
  • Full Sun House Plants
  • Bright Light House Plants
  • Filtered Light House Plants
  • Light Shade House Plants
  • Hanging Basket House Plants
  • Floor Plant House Plants
  • Table Plant House Plants
  • Terrarium Plant House Plants
  • Very Easy House Plants
  • Easy House Plants
  • Demanding House Plants
  • Temporary House Plants
  • Flowering House Plants
  • Climbing or Trailing House Plants
  • House Plants with Colorful Foliage
  • Fragrant House Plants
  • Gardening

Propagating House Plants

Many house plant enthusiasts enjoy the challenge of multiplying their plants, either to renew them or to have new plants to give as gifts. While not all of the methods shown here apply to every house plant, all can be propagated in one way or another.

Stem Cuttings

The most popular way to propagate plants is through stem cuttings, which can be used on any plant with noticeable stems. To do this, select a healthy section of stem with at least three nodes and cut it cleanly just below the lowest node, while removing any flowers or leaves growing from the bottom node. Applying rooting hormone to the cut section can help stimulate faster rooting, but it’s not necessary. Rooting mix such as soilless growing media, vermiculite, sand, or perlite should be used to root the cuttings. Insert the cutting into the prepared hole and cover it with mix, then cover the container with a plastic bag to maintain high humidity. Once the cutting is well-rooted, remove the plastic and treat it like an adult plant. The rest of the stem can also be cut into sections and rooted, as long as they are right-side up. Succulents and cacti should be allowed to heal over before being potted.

Leaf cuttings are another form of propagation, but only a few plants can be reproduced this way. Break off a whole leaf, including its stalk, and insert the stalk into the rooting medium, covering the container with clear plastic. New plantlets will soon sprout at the leaf’s base and can be potted individually once they are well-rooted. Some plants, such as florist’s gloxinias, rex begonias, snake plants, and streptocarpus, can even be rooted from a small leaf section.

Layering is another method of propagation.

This guide explains various methods of propagating house plants. For plants with trailing stems or those that produce baby plants on stolons, you can pin a section of stem into moist growing mix until it roots and then cut it free to grow on its own. This method is suitable for plants like episcias, pothos, and Boston ferns. Air layering, on the other hand, is used for trees or shrublike plants with thick or woody stems that are hard to root from stem cuttings. This involves making a cut halfway through the main stem, applying rooting compound, covering it with moist sphagnum moss, and wrapping it in plastic until roots have formed. Plants that grow in clumps should be propagated by division, breaking up the rootball into sections, each with a rooted stem, and planting them in individual pots. Plants that produce offsets can also be cut free from the mother plant when they are about one third of their size. Finally, almost all house plants can be grown from seed, although it may be easier to buy them from seed companies. Plant the seeds in moist growing medium, cover with plastic or glass, and place in a warm, bright spot. When plantlets appear, gradually remove the covering and pot them individually. Some plants that can be propagated by seed include asparagus ferns, begonias, primroses, and parlor palms.

The list includes various categories of house plants such as Full Sun House Plants, Bright Light House Plants, Filtered Light House Plants, Light Shade House Plants, Hanging Basket House Plants, Floor Plant House Plants, Table Plant House Plants, Terrarium Plant House Plants, Very Easy House Plants, Easy House Plants, Demanding House Plants, Temporary House Plants, Flowering House Plants, Climbing or Trailing House Plants, House Plants with Colorful Foliage, Fragrant House Plants, and Gardening.

The main value of house plants is their ability to enhance the decoration of a home. They create a cozy atmosphere and make large spaces appear intimate while small spaces look larger. Therefore, almost all home decor styles require at least a few house plants placed in strategic locations. If a plant does not grow well in a particular spot, it can be moved to another location instead of installing artificial lights.

Flowering house plants require more light than foliage types, but they can still be used for decorative purposes when not in bloom. Dish gardens and terrariums are excellent options for creating miniature gardens using small foliage plants and occasional flowering plants. Trailing and bushy plants can be mixed for a decorative effect, and delicate plants can be kept in glass terrariums. Finally, it is essential to prevent pests and diseases in house plants.

The list includes various types of house plants such as hanging basket plants, floor plants, and terrarium plants, among others. Additionally, the list is divided into categories based on the level of care required, including very easy, demanding, and flowering house plants.

The article focuses on preventing pests and diseases in house plants. It highlights the various symptoms that can arise due to cultural practices and provides advice on how to treat them. For example, insufficient light can cause pale growth with smaller leaves, and the solution is to move the plant to a brighter spot or provide artificial light.

The article also advises using appropriate pesticides to treat pests and diseases. It recommends using organic pesticides in an indoor environment and suggests several efficient options such as insecticidal soap, diatomaceous earth, and powdered sulfur. Finally, the article provides a chart to help readers identify and treat plant conditions caused by pests.

The article discusses various types of insects and pests that can affect house plants. It provides a table that lists the symptoms, causes, and treatments for each type of pest. Spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, aphids, whiteflies, and thrips are some of the pests discussed in the article. The article also mentions a specific type of pest, cyclamen mites, that affects certain plants like African violets, begonias, and cyclamens. The article advises getting rid of infected plants or using appropriate miticides or insecticidal soap treatments. Additionally, the article mentions two harmless pests, springtails and fungus gnats/sand flies, and suggests letting the soil dry out between waterings to discourage them. Finally, the article notes that plant conditions could also be caused by diseases and provides a chart to help readers identify symptoms and treatments.

The article discusses common diseases of house plants and their symptoms, causes, and treatments. White mold, gray mold, leaf spots, and root or stem rot are some of the diseases that can affect house plants. Improving air circulation, avoiding moistening foliage when watering, and using appropriate fungicides can help treat and prevent these diseases. Using pasteurized potting mixes and isolating new plants after purchase can also prevent insect and disease problems. The article then provides tips for vacation care for house plants, such as using watering systems and placing plants on water-filled trays. For prolonged absences, there are some last-minute tricks to keep house plants alive. The article also includes a list of different types of house plants based on their light and care requirements.

To keep plants healthy while you’re away, start by placing them in a shaded area and removing any flowers or buds to reduce their water needs. Even though plants typically don’t like waterlogged soil, you can occasionally flood them with water by setting them in a deep tray. After this treatment, most plants can survive for at least three weeks without any care. For more delicate plants, you can cover them in plastic to prevent evaporation and they can go without care for over a month. Alternatively, you can ask a knowledgeable neighbor to come in once or twice a week to water the plants. To learn more about different types of house plants, check out the list of categories provided. Larry Hodgson, a garden writer from Quebec City with over 3,000 species and varieties of plants, is the author of several books on gardening and houseplants. He was awarded the Perennial Plant Association’s 2006 Garden Media Award.

FAQ

1. What kind of soil is best for house plants?

The best soil for house plants is a well-draining soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged. A good potting mix should include organic matter such as peat moss or coconut coir, as well as perlite or vermiculite to aid in drainage. It’s also a good idea to add some slow-release fertilizer to the soil to provide nutrients for your plants over time.

2. How often should I water my house plants?

The frequency of watering your house plants will depend on the type of plant, the size of the pot, and the conditions in your home. As a general rule, it’s better to underwater than overwater your plants, as too much water can lead to root rot. Check the soil moisture level regularly by sticking your finger about an inch deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, wait a few more days and check again.

3. Should I fertilize my house plants?

Yes, fertilizing your house plants is important to keep them healthy and encourage growth. Choose a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer and follow the instructions on the package. It’s best to fertilize your plants every two to four weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) and reduce or stop fertilizing during the dormant season (fall and winter).

4. How can I prevent pests from infesting my house plants?

Pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects can be a common problem for house plants. To prevent infestations, inspect your plants regularly for any signs of pests or damage. Isolate any infested plants immediately to prevent the pests from spreading to other plants. You can also use natural pest control methods such as spraying the plants with a mixture of water and neem oil or introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs.

5. Can I repot my house plants?

Yes, repotting your house plants is necessary when they outgrow their current pot or the soil becomes depleted. Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the current one and make sure it has drainage holes. Gently remove the plant from its current pot and loosen the roots. Place some fresh potting mix in the bottom of the new pot and position the plant in the center. Fill in around the sides with more potting mix, making sure to leave a little space at the top for watering.

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