Home repairs are important for the upkeep of your house. One of the most crucial fixtures in your home is the toilet. While toilets are usually reliable, it’s common for homeowners or tenants to encounter problems with them. The most common issue is clogging, but there are various other problems such as the tank making strange noises or water running continuously. Fortunately, most toilet troubles can be fixed by yourself.

If you’re a do-it-yourself person, it’s useful to learn some quick fixes that can save you from calling a plumber. In this article, we’ll discuss different toilet issues and how to solve them.

Replacing a Toilet Seat

Replacing the toilet seat and lid is the easiest repair task. There are many styles of replacement seats available, so you should have no trouble finding one to suit your bathroom’s color scheme or motif. Most modern toilets are manufactured in two standard sizes, and replacement seats are made to fit them.

Once you have the right size seat, remove the old one. Remove the two nuts on the hinge and lift the old toilet seat up and out. A common problem is that the nuts securing the toilet seat may be rusted or corroded. Some toilet seats have recessed nuts that are difficult to access, making the job more challenging.

To install a new toilet seat, insert the two bolts, slip on the washers, and tighten the nuts. Be careful not to over-tighten them, or the seat will be difficult to remove later. If the fasteners are difficult to access, apply penetrating oil to them to help loosen them. Give the oil time to soak in, and use a wrench or a deep socket wrench if necessary. Be careful not to use too much force, as it could damage the tank or bowl.

Sink, Tub and Drain Troubleshooting Guide

Problem	Possible Cause	Solution
Water in tank runs constantly	Float ball or rod is misaligned.	Bend float rod carefully to move ball so it will not rub against side of tank.
Float ball contains water.	Empty or replace float ball.
Float ball not rising high enough.	Carefully bend float rod down, but only slightly.
Tank ball not sealing properly at bottom of tank.	Remove any corrosion from lip of valve seat. Replace tank ball if worn. Adjust lift wire and guide.
Ballcock valve does not shut off water.	Replace washers in ballcock assembly or, if necessary, replace entire assembly.
Toilet does not flush or flushes inadequately	Drain is clogged.	Remove blockage in drain.
Not enough water in tank.	Raise water in tank by bending float rod up slightly.
Tank ball falls back before enough water leaves tank.	Move guide up so tank ball can rise higher.
Leak where tank joins toilet bowl.	Tighten nuts on spud pipe; replace spud washers, if necessary.
Ports around bowl rim clogged.	Ream out residue from ports.
Tank whines while filling	Ballcock valve not operating properly.	Replace washers or install new ballcock assembly
Waster supply is restricted.	Check shutoff to make sure it’s completely open. Check for scale or corrosion at entry into tank on valve.
Moisture around fixture	Condensation.	Install foam liner, tank cover, drip catcher or temperature valve.
Leak at flange wax seal.	Remove toilet and install new wax ring seal.
Leak at bowl-tank connection.	Tighten spud pipe nuts; replace worn spud washers, if necessary.
Leak at water inlet connection.	Tighten locknut and coupling nut; replace washers and gasket, if necessary.
Crack in bowl or tank.	Replace bowl, tank, or entire fixture.

If none of the above methods work, you may need to use a hacksaw to cut off the bolts. To avoid damaging the bowl’s finish, apply tape to the areas the hacksaw blade may rub against. Then, carefully insert the blade under the hinge and saw through the bolts. Be cautious when using the saw, as a slip may crack the fixture just as easily as a wrench.

Once the nuts are removed or the bolts are cut, you can easily remove the old seat. Clean the area before installing the new seat. To install the new seat, insert the bolts and tighten the nuts. Be careful not to over-tighten, as you may need to replace the seat in the future. If you live in a rented apartment and install a new seat that you purchased, keep the old one. When you move out, you can replace the new seat with the original and take the new seat with you.

If the rubber bumpers on the bottom of your toilet lid and seat are damaged, you can purchase new ones at a hardware store. Some require screws while others need to be nailed or glued in place. When installing the replacements, try to use holes that are close enough to hide the original ones.

Clearing a clogged toilet is usually possible with a plunger. Ensure that there is enough water in the bowl to cover the suction cup and then pump the handle up and down. If there isn’t enough water, don’t flush the toilet as it will overflow. Instead, add water from another source. There are two types of plungers, but the bulb-type head is the most effective for toilets. If the plunger doesn’t work, try using a wire coat hanger or a closet or toilet auger.

To use the auger, insert it into the toilet trap and turn the crank until it feels tight. When you pull it in, the clog should come out. If not, repeat the process or use a regular plumbers’ snake. If all else fails, you may need to remove the toilet from the floor to access the blockage.

If your toilet tank is making strange noises or has continuous water running, it could be wasting water and money. Fortunately, most tank issues can be easily resolved.

Toilet tank issues are common and frustrating, and they may result in wasted water and money. However, many problems can be quickly and easily resolved. This is a diagram of a standard toilet tank and its parts.

Once you understand how the toilet operates, you can begin to identify the root of any toilet tank difficulties. Simply remove the lid from your toilet tank and follow these steps.

When you flush the toilet by pressing down on the handle, a lever inside the tank is raised. This lever lifts wires, which then lift the tank ball or rubber flap at the tank’s bottom. Once the flush valve opening is clear, water from the tank rushes out past the raised tank ball and into the toilet bowl below. This causes the water level in the bowl to rise above the level of water in the toilet trap.

As the water flows out of the tank, the float ball, which sits on top of the water, drops down. This pulls on the float arm, lifting the valve plunger in the ballcock assembly and allowing fresh water to enter the tank. Because water seeks its own level, the water from the tank pushes the bowl water out into the drain, creating a siphoning action that cleans the bowl. When all the water has drained from the toilet bowl, and air has been drawn into the trap, the siphoning ceases. The tank ball then falls back into place, shutting the flush valve opening.

As the water level in the tank rises, the float ball rises until the float arm is high enough to lower the valve plunger in the ballcock assembly and stop the incoming water. If the water fails to shut off, an overflow tube carries excess water down into the bowl to prevent the tank from overflowing. If water continues to flow continuously from the tank to the bowl and then down the drain:

Step 1: Lift the float arm. If the water stops, the issue is that the float ball isn’t rising high enough to lower the valve plunger in the ballcock assembly. This could be due to the float ball rubbing against the tank’s side. If that’s the case, bend the float arm slightly to move the ball away from the tank’s side.

If your toilet continues to run, check the guide and lift wire that move the tank ball up and down to ensure that they are properly aligned.

Step 2: If the ball doesn’t touch the tank, continue to hold the float arm and turn the ball counterclockwise to remove it from the arm. Shake the ball to see if there is water inside it, as the weight of the water could be preventing the ball from rising normally. If there is water inside the ball, shake it out and put it back on the float arm. If the ball is damaged or corroded, replace it with a new one. If there is no water in the ball, put it back on and gently bend the float rod down to lower the level that the float ball must reach to shut off the flow of fresh water into the tank.

If the previous steps do not resolve the issue, then it is necessary to check the tank ball located at the flush valve seat. The ball may not be seating properly due to chemical residue from the water or may have deteriorated. To examine the ball, turn off the water at the toilet shutoff valve and flush the toilet to empty the tank. If the ball shows signs of wear or decay, install a new one. If chemical residue is the problem, clean the debris off the lip of the flush valve opening using wet-dry emery cloth, steel wool, or a knife.

In the event that excess water still flows through the toilet, the guide or lift wire that raises and lowers the tank ball may be out of line or bent. Make sure the guide is in place and the wire is directly above the flush valve opening. If the lift wire is bent, try to bend it back to the correct position or install a new one. Ensure the trip lever rod is not rubbing against anything and the lift wire is installed in the correct hole of the rod to avoid the tank ball from falling at an angle and not blocking the opening.

If neither the float ball nor the tank ball is responsible for the issue, then the problem lies with the ballcock assembly. When purchasing a new ballcock assembly, both plastic and metal units are available. While plastic is cheaper and corrosion-resistant, it is not as sturdy as metal and cannot be repaired. If possible, bring the old assembly when buying the replacement. To fix an older-style ballcock assembly, turn off the water shutoff valve for the toilet, remove the valve plunger, and replace any faulty washers or O-rings. If the assembly is sealed, replace it as a unit and remove the refill tube from the overflow tube.

Step 4: Check for a coupling or slip nut beneath the tank where the water inlet pipe enters the base of the tank. Loosen the coupling nut to release the water inlet pipe. Next, use an adjustable wrench to hold the retaining nut or locknut right above the sip nut under the tank. Use another wrench to hold the base of the ballcock assembly shaft inside the tank.

Step 5: Loosen the locknut under the tank to remove the ballcock assembly. If it’s tough to remove, use penetrating oil to loosen it.

Step 6: Remove the old assembly from the tank, keeping the washers from all connections, both inside and outside the tank. New ones will most likely be included with the replacement unit, but keep the old parts until you’ve installed the new ballcock assembly in case new parts are damaged during installation.

When installing a new ballcock assembly, make sure the gasket and the
washer are properly seated and firmly secured by the retaining unit.

Step 7: Place the new ballcock assembly into the hole in the tank. With the inside washer in place, tighten the locknut on the outside adequately to make the inside washer fit watertight against the hole, but don’t over-tighten it.

Step 8: Reconnect the coupling nut and water inlet pipe, reinstall the float arm, and place the refill tube into the overflow tube.

Step 9: Turn on the water at the toilet shutoff valve and check for leaks at all points. Additionally, ensure that the float ball does not rub against the back of the tank.

Newer models of ballcock assemblies eliminate the float arm and float ball. One kind features a plastic cup that rises to cut off the water as the tank fills. You can adjust the water level in the tank by moving the plastic cup on a pull rod. One advantage of this type of ballcock assembly is that it allows the water to run full-force until the tank is filled. It then immediately shuts off the water, eliminating the groaning noises some toilets make as a float arm gradually closes the valve.

One type of diaphragm-powered valve rests close to the bottom of the
tank (left); it eliminates the float ball and float arm. Another type (right)
uses a flapper cover, lifted by a chain.

Another kind of ballcock also eliminates the float ball and float arm. This is a small unit that rests almost on the bottom of the tank. Its diaphragm-powered valve senses the water level from down there. Additionally, since it requires no tools, this assembly is an easy unit to install. To install these newer ballcock assemblies:

Step 1: Turn off the tank’s water supply shutoff valve. Then flush the toilet to drain the tank. Use a sponge to absorb any remaining water in the tank before proceeding.

Step 2: Follow the procedure outlined above to remove the old ballcock assembly. Slip the parts over the water inlet pipe under the tank in this order: coupling nut, friction washer, cone washer, and retaining or mounting nut.

Fixing Toilet Problems

To install a new unit inside the tank, start by fitting the threaded shank
down through the hole over the water supply pipe. Ensure that the gasket fits
into the hole and start tightening the retaining or mounting nut under the tank
onto the threaded shank. Remember to hand-tighten it only. Push the washers
into place and hand-tighten the coupling nut under the tank. Be careful not
to over-tighten it.

Attach one end of the refill tube to the tank’s overflow pipe and place the
other end on the stem of the replacement unit inside the tank.

Open the water supply valve to fill the tank. Adjust the water level in
the tank using the knob on the new valve unit.

When too little water comes from the tank to flush the toilet bowl clean,
check the water level in the tank. If it’s too low, bend the float arm up slightly
to let more water enter the tank. If the water level is correct but there’s still
not enough water coming from the tank to clean the bowl properly, the problem
may be the tank ball on the flush valve seat at the bottom of the tank. Raise
the guide, but ensure it stays in line with the lift wire. Look for other causes
of inadequate flushing such as clogged holes on the underside of the toilet bowl’s
rim. Use a small mirror, a piece of wire coat hanger or an offset Phillips screwdriver
to clean out any clogged debris.

If your toilet tank sweats and drips onto your floor, consider using jackets
designed to fit over the tank and absorb the moisture. Alternatively, use drip
pans that fit under the tank to catch the dripping condensation. You can also
install a temperator valve that regulates a mixture of hot and cold water to
lessen the difference in temperature between the tank and the surrounding air.
This difference in temperature causes condensation or sweating. Consider installing
a temperator valve if the water in the tank is usually below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

To prevent toilet tank sweating, you can install a temperator valve that requires both hot and cold water connections. However, this may be inconvenient if a hot water line is not readily available near the toilet. Additionally, the valve does not prevent the water from cooling between flushes, which can still result in condensation. Leakage may be due to loose connections or defective washers, which can be fixed by replacing worn components and tightening all nuts. If water is seeping out from under the toilet, a defective wax ring seal may be the culprit, which requires removing the bowl and installing a new gasket. If the tank or bowl is cracked, the entire toilet must be replaced.

Replacing a Toilet

While removing and replacing a toilet should be done only when necessary, it is a task that can be accomplished by anyone. If you are unable to unclog the toilet by other means, need a more modern fixture, or have a cracked bowl or tank that is leaking around the base, removing and reinstalling the old toilet or installing a new one is necessary. However, it is essential to check local plumbing codes to ensure that you are allowed to perform the task yourself. To replace a toilet, measure the rough-in distance from the wall to the center of either of the two hold-down bolts that secure the fixture to the floor, then select a replacement toilet unit that fits properly in your bathroom. Shut off the water supply to the tank, remove all water from the tank and bowl, and disconnect the tank from the bowl. Finally, remove the tank and set it aside.

To replace a toilet, start by removing the caps over the hold-down bolts at the base of the bowl. These caps can be made of ceramic or held on by plumbers’ join compound and can be removed with a putty knife or unscrewed. After removing the caps, brush away any dried compound. Next, remove the hold-down nuts or bolts using penetrating oil if necessary, and save the washers and bolts if you plan to reinstall the bowl. To prevent sewer gas from backing up the drain, plug the opening while you work. Then, rock the bowl gently back and forth to loosen it, and lift it straight up. Inspect the uncovered drain and clear it if necessary. To install a new toilet, scrape away all the old putty or other sealing material from both the bottom of the bowl and the floor flange. Inspect the floor and the flange and bolts that come up from the flange, and rebuild the damaged area if necessary. Install a new sealer ring on the water outlet opening on the bottom of the new bowl, and apply a uniform layer of toilet-bowl setting compound about 2 1/8 inch thick around the edge of the bowl at the base.

To install a toilet, start by removing the plug from the drain or soil pipe. Then, turn the bowl right side up and place it over the flange, making sure the wax ring is properly seated against the flange. Check the level of the bowl and adjust it as needed, being careful not to break the seal of the wax ring. Hand-tighten the nuts to hold the bowl to the floor, being careful not to over-tighten and crack the fixture. Apply toilet bowl setting compound to the hold-down nuts and bolts, and reinstall the caps. If the tank and bowl are separate, attach the tank and replace any damaged parts. Finally, reconnect the water supply inlet pipe to the tank and turn the water back on. More information on toilets and other appliances can be found in related HowStuffWorks articles.

FAQ

1. What are the most common toilet problems?

The most common toilet problems include a toilet that won’t flush, a toilet that constantly runs, a leaking toilet tank, a clogged toilet, and a wobbly toilet seat. These issues can be caused by a variety of factors, such as a malfunctioning flapper, a faulty fill valve, a damaged flush handle, a blocked drain pipe, or loose bolts.

2. How do I fix a toilet that won’t flush?

If your toilet won’t flush, the first thing to check is the flapper. Make sure it’s properly attached and not stuck closed. If the flapper seems fine, check the chain that connects it to the flush handle. If it’s too long or too short, adjust it accordingly. If the problem persists, check the fill valve and the flush handle for any damage or wear and tear.

3. How do I stop a toilet from running?

A toilet that constantly runs is typically caused by a faulty fill valve or a flapper that doesn’t seal properly. To fix this issue, first, check the flapper and make sure it’s not damaged or stuck open. If the flapper is fine, check the fill valve for any leaks or blockages. If necessary, replace the fill valve or adjust the water level to prevent the toilet from running.

4. How do I repair a leaking toilet tank?

If your toilet tank is leaking, the problem may be caused by a damaged gasket or a loose connection. First, turn off the water supply and drain the tank. Then, inspect the gasket between the tank and the bowl, and replace it if it’s cracked or worn out. If that doesn’t fix the issue, check the bolts and nuts that hold the tank to the bowl and tighten them if necessary.

5. How do I unclog a toilet?

If your toilet is clogged, start by using a plunger to try and dislodge the blockage. If that doesn’t work, try using a toilet auger or a drain snake to break up and remove the obstruction. Be careful not to damage the toilet bowl or the trap in the process. If none of these methods work, you may need to call a professional plumber.

6. How do I fix a wobbly toilet seat?

A wobbly toilet seat is usually caused by loose bolts. To fix this issue, locate the bolts that hold the seat to the bowl and tighten them with a wrench. If the bolts are damaged or stripped, replace them with new ones. You can also try using rubber spacers or adhesive pads to stabilize the seat and prevent it from wobbling.