How to Get Your Soil Ready for Planting

Lawn & Garden

Many of us tend to overlook the importance of soil when it comes to planting. However, just putting a plant in a hole isn’t enough. Most soils require amending to create optimal growing conditions.

But how do you amend soil? The first step is to do a soil test. This article will guide you through the soil test and provide further steps to get your soil to the ideal condition. The article covers the following helpful sections:

• About Soil

  Learn about soil in general and how to conduct a soil test. This section provides suggestions on how to alter the nutrients and pH of your soil to make it as fertile as possible. Other important tests discussed in this section are texture and drainage checks.

• Preparing Soil

  This section provides tips on how to amend your soil, including using inorganic and organic fertilizers, composting, and understanding NPK formulas. If you prefer going the organic route, you’ll also find tips about alternative ways to improve soil conditions without using chemicals.

• Soil Techniques

  Learn about the best ways to prepare your garden bed for planting, such as rototilling and hand digging. This section also covers special soil techniques, such as double-digging for high-performance beds and creating raised beds for very poor soil conditions.

• Mulching

  This section provides information on the benefits of mulching and how to do it properly to retain moisture, keep weeds at bay, and give a finished look to your garden.

Even if you have nutrient-rich soil, you can still benefit from the helpful tips and techniques in this article. So, get a soil test and start maximizing the potential of your garden soil.

Sources of Specific Nutrients

Processed and packaged fertilizers are available for many of these nutrients.

• Boron: manure, borax, chelated boron
• Calcium: bonemeal, limestone, eggshells, wood ashes, oyster shells, chelated calcium
• Copper: chelated copper
• Iron: chelated iron, iron sulfate
• Magnesium: Epsom salts, dolomitic limestone, chelated magnesium
• Nitrogen: livestock manure (composted), bat guano, chicken manure, fish emulsion, blood meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal
• Phosphorus: bonemeal, rock phosphate, super phosphate
• Potassium: granite meal, sulfate of potash, greensand, wood ashes, seabird guano, shrimp shell meal
• Sulfur: sulfur, solubor, iron sulfate, zinc sulfate
• Zinc: zinc sulfate, chelated zinc

Before planting your garden, it’s important to prepare even the best soil, especially if you plan to grow high-maintenance plants. Check out the next section for helpful tips on soil techniques, such as double-digging a garden bed.

The foundation of a great garden is good soil. However, the loose, dark earth of magazine-worthy gardens isn’t always natural. Gardeners often improve their native soils to achieve this ideal. Soil types range from dry, nutrient-poor sand to heavy clay that turns into brick when dry. Fortunately, most soils fall somewhere in between. Unfortunately, very few homeowners have the ideal “rich garden loam” to work with.

Soils can be amended with sand to improve drainage or clay to retain moisture. Organic matter, such as old leaves, twigs, manure, and grass clippings, can be added to improve texture and structure. Organic matter nourishes all types of soil, promoting better plant growth.

To make the most of the soil in your area, identify your garden conditions by having your soil tested and follow the tips that follow.

Soil Testing

To determine the type of soil you have, whether it’s light and sandy, moderate and productive, or heavy clay, it’s recommended to have your soil tested. Before adding fertilizers and amendments to your garden soil, it’s best to get a soil test. Sometimes, tampering with nutrients or soil acidity can create more problems than benefits, so it’s better to follow the old advice, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Soil tests provide information on nutrient levels in your soil, similar to the nutrient guides on packaged foods. They also indicate pH and organic content, which are vital factors for overall plant growth.

To have your soil tested, you can contact your local Cooperative Extension Service, usually listed under state or county government in the phone book. They can provide you with a soil-testing kit, which contains a soil-collecting bag and instructions. It’s essential to follow the instructions closely to get accurate results. You may receive a chart full of numbers, which can seem intimidating at first. However, by looking for specific details, you can interpret these numbers.

If the percentage of organic matter is less than 5 percent, you’ll need to add extra compost to your garden. Nutrients will be listed separately, and sometimes they are rated as high, medium, or low levels. If an element or two is on the low side, you’ll need to add a fertilizer that replaces what’s lacking. Soil pH refers to the acidity of the soil. Ratings below 7 are acidic soils, and from 6 to 7 are slightly acidic, which is the most fertile pH range. Above 7 is alkaline or basic soil, which can become problematic above pH 8. Excessively acidic and alkaline soils can be treated to make them more moderate and productive.

It’s essential to add only the nutrients that your soil test says are necessary. Too much of any one nutrient can produce toxic results, similar to disease or worse. Buy and apply only what’s required, and save the rest of your money for a better use, like more plants.

Determining pH Levels

It’s best to choose plants that thrive in the pH of your existing soil. However, if you need to alter the pH, follow the guidelines below.

If you have acidic soil, use ground limestone to increase the pH level. You should add limestone in the fall to give it time to dissolve and work effectively. The amount of limestone needed will depend on the soil conditions, and you can determine the pH level through a soil test. Adding too much limestone can harm the soil, so follow the guidelines on the package or from a soil test. For limey or high pH soils, add cottonseed meal, sulfur, pine bark, compost, or pine needles to lower the alkalinity and increase fertility. Garden sulfur is useful for slowly acidifying the soil as microbes convert sulfur to sulfuric acid and other compounds. Maintaining a healthy pH level is an ongoing project, so continue to check and add amendments as needed.

To determine the texture of your soil, do a simple test at home using a jar filled with water. Take a sample from the garden and mix it with powdered dishwasher detergent in the jar. Shake it for a minute and let it sit undisturbed. After marking the level of sand, silt, and clay that settles out, you can determine the texture of your soil. Sandier soil needs more frequent watering and fertilization, while clay soil retains moisture and may need less watering. Soil with equal amounts of sand, silt, and clay is well-suited for gardening.

To test drainage, dig a hole and fill it with water. If it drains out in less than 12 hours, the drainage is good. If it takes more than 24 hours, the drainage is poor.

To test your soil’s drainage, dig a hole and fill it with water. Observe how quickly the water disappears to determine if the soil is excessively dry or too soggy. This project is more effective than any soil test. When the soil is dry, dig several 1-foot-deep and 2-feet-wide holes and fill them with water. Record the time it takes for the holes to empty. Use the following scale to compare your findings: 1-12 minutes indicate sharply drained and dry soil, 12-30 minutes indicate ideal drainage, 30 minutes to 4 hours indicate slow but adequate drainage for plants that thrive in moist soil, and more than 4 hours indicate poor drainage that requires assistance. While soil tests may seem like a lot of work, healthy soil is essential for healthy plants.

Pay attention to the weeds growing in your garden as they can reveal important information about your soil. Weeds are opportunistic and will grow in any available space. Some weeds prefer certain types of soil, for example, dandelions thrive in fertile soil. Crabgrass, plantains, sheep sorrel, and horsetails grow best in acidic soil while chamomile and goosefoot favor alkaline soil. Redroot pigweed, chickweed, dandelions, and wild mustard grow well in near-neutral, fertile soil.

If a garden area has few weeds, the soil may need work. If weeds are growing sparsely with short, stunted stems and discolored leaves, there may be a nutrient deficiency and a soil test is recommended. If weeds sprout up quickly in some areas and more slowly in others, the moister areas are better for seed germination.

Learn how to prepare your soil for planting by understanding its nature. Different soils require different methods to amend and improve them for optimal growing conditions. Organic fertilizers can be used to supplement the soil if a soil test indicates a lack of certain nutrients. However, inorganic fertilizers are better for fast results or if there is a significant imbalance of nutrients. A combination of both can be used for a good compromise. Chemical fertilizers typically contain a combination of the three major nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, represented by the NPK numbers on the bag.

The NPK ratio is printed on every package of organic fertilizer, but the nutrient percentages are lower compared to synthetic fertilizers, therefore more organic plant food is needed to achieve the same results. If there is a deficiency in a single nutrient, it is possible to purchase fertilizers separately. Contact your Cooperative Extension office or garden center staff for assistance. In addition to fertilizers, there are other ways to enhance the quality of soil, such as adding organic matter from a variety of sources like compost, grass clippings, livestock manure, and shredded leaves. A complete list of organic matter sources is provided in the table.

your hand. If it forms a ball and feels sticky, it’s clay. If it feels gritty and falls apart easily, it’s sandy. Loamy soil feels smooth and holds together moderately well.

Here are some tips for improving your soil quality and adding organic matter to your garden. You can get local compost from your city or town hall service department, or try checking with the nearest Cooperative Extension Service, landscapers, nurseries, or bulk soil dealers. Plan ahead for bulky organic soil amendments like compost, manure, and leaves. If your garden is beside a house or fence, keep the soil level low enough so it won’t come in contact with wooden siding or fencing that isn’t rot-resistant. When planting around existing trees, shrubs, and perennial flowers, avoid covering the crown with organic material to prevent disease problems. Till or spade a thick layer of compost into lightly moist soil to bring it to life before planting a new garden. Add a 4- to 6-inch-deep layer of compost to the soil and work it down until it’s 10 to 12 inches deep to maintain the desired texture. Try spading or no-till systems to preserve the texture and organic content of thriving garden soils. Lastly, you can easily check your soil texture by squeezing some lightly moist soil in your hand.

Your Hand

It is crucial to test the soil texture by touch before and after adding amendments to determine the degree of the alteration. Extract a small amount of slightly damp soil from several inches beneath the ground surface, compress it into a ball with your hand, and observe the outcome when you spread your fingers.

Sandy soils have a rough texture and crumble easily. To improve this type of soil, add a thick layer of compost and a small amount of clay, then try again. You will notice an improvement when the soil is able to hold together better. On the other hand, clay soils have a smooth texture and form a solid ball that is difficult to break apart. To make this type of soil lighter, add extra compost and coarse sand. Once the soil is light enough, it should break apart easily with a tap of your finger. If you want to create a beautiful garden filled with roses, you will need to know some special techniques for preparing the soil. To start, mark the boundaries of the flower bed with pegs and string, or a garden hose for curved lines. Cut through the sod with a spade and remove it from the entire bed. If there are rocks in the area, remove as many as possible during the digging process.

If the soil is sandy or loamy, you may be able to use a rototiller instead of hand turning it. However, if the soil is clay or rocky, it requires hand digging first. For small planting areas, it’s recommended to dig and break up the soil by hand or with a spade. Once the soil is turned, it’s possible to use a rototiller. You can rent rototillers by the day, or hire someone to till by the hour if you don’t have one.

Spread the necessary fertilizer, soil conditioners, and pH-adjusting chemicals over the area after turning the soil. Ideally, you want to loosen and improve the soil to a depth of more than 6 inches. You can turn and loosen the soil by hand with a spade if the area is too small to require a rototiller. Fertilizers, soil conditioners, and pH-adjusting chemicals will be added at different times of the year for best results.

Install some kind of mowing strip around the garden bed to prevent grass and flowers from intermixing. Patio squares or slate pieces laid end-to-end at ground level work well. Other options include landscape logs, poured concrete strips, or bricks laid side-by-side on a sand or concrete base. The mowing strip must be deep and wide enough so grass roots cannot tunnel underneath or travel across the top to reach the flower bed.

Let the soil stand unplanted for a week or more if possible. Stir the surface 1 or 2 inches every three to four days with a scuffle hoe or cultivator to eradicate fast-germinating weeds. This will make weeding chores lighter during the rest of the season.

Double-digging garden beds is recommended for deep-rooted plants such as roses and perennials. The average rototiller works the soil only 8 or 10 inches deep and won’t break up compacted soil below. Double-digging will. However, it requires a lot of manual labor and should be done gradually to avoid overexertion. Alternatively, you can hire a professional landscaper if you have health restrictions. Start by removing a strip of soil a spade’s length deep and a spade’s width wide, then turn the soil below it and break it up. Another option is to use a garden fork to break up the hard lower soil and add organic matter if needed.

To create raised beds, one can use pressure-treated wood, reinforced concrete, or mortared brick, stone, or blocks. They can be of any length, but a soil depth of at least 6 inches is recommended for optimal root growth. In order to prepare the soil for planting in raised beds, dig out the existing soil and put it on a tarp to make it easier to remove any excess soil. This soil can be used to build a waterfall or to fill the raised beds. Once the soil is removed, add organic matter as desired to the topsoil and loosen and amend the subsurface soil. Fill each trench from the adjacent row and loosen the soil below, then fill the final strip with soil from a wheelbarrow.

It’s possible to cater to the specific soil needs of various plants by filling some beds with a rich loam mix and others with a sandier, well-drained mix. Although this may seem costly in the short term, the beds will last for years and prove to be a worthwhile investment. In vegetable gardens, planting rows can be mounded up to 6-8 inches high and 2-3 feet wide, while permanent and decorative gardens can be set up in raised-bed frames made of timbers, logs, rocks, or bricks. For bigger building projects, it’s best to seek professional help to ensure that the structures are strong and long-lasting. If using pressure-treated wood, it’s important to avoid growing herbs or vegetables in raised beds due to the presence of toxins. Adding mulch to your garden not only enhances its appearance but also promotes soil health by keeping weeds out and moisture in. To achieve the desired look and coverage, it’s recommended to cover garden beds with a layer of mulch, which can also reduce the need for water and prevent annual weed seeds from sprouting. Organic mulches made of bark or compost can create a natural-looking garden, while bright gravel can add a pop of color. Straw is an excellent mulch for utilitarian gardens like vegetable gardens. Fine-textured mulches like twice-shredded bark, compost, or cocoa hulls are best for maximum effectiveness with only a thin layer, while thicker layers of coarse-textured mulches like straw or bark chunks can provide an airy texture. It’s important not to apply thick layers of fine-textured mulches like grass clippings, as they can mat down and smother the soil.

The article suggests various ways to improve soil quality in gardens. The first tip is to use newspaper or compost to kill off sod or dense weeds by depriving them of sunlight, which will eventually decay and add organic matter to the soil. Woody mulch, such as shredded bark, uses nitrogen as it decays, so extra nitrogen needs to be added to prevent the decay process from consuming soil nitrogen that plants need for growth. Mulching new plants with straw or chopped leaves after planting is recommended to prevent root damage during winter. Adding a thick layer of mulch and allowing it to rot will release minerals that soak down into the soil and fertilize existing plants. Mulching generously with an airy material like straw in winter helps to keep the soil frozen until winter ends and prevent frost heaving, which can break new roots or push new plantings out of the ground. Evergreen boughs or straw can be used to protect evergreen perennials and ground covers from winter burn. Lastly, snowy areas have the advantage of snow being the best mulch of all, allowing plants to survive winter. With the proper soil amendments and hard work, anyone can have a garden filled with their favorite flowers.

FAQ

1. What is the importance of preparing soil for planting?

Preparing soil for planting is crucial for the success and growth of your plants. Proper soil preparation ensures that the soil is nutrient-rich, well-draining, and free from weeds and pests, giving your plants the best possible environment to grow and thrive.

2. When is the best time to prepare soil for planting?

The best time to prepare soil for planting is in the fall or early spring. This allows time for the soil to settle and the organic matter to decompose, providing a healthy environment for your plants.

3. How do I test my soil before planting?

You can test your soil by purchasing a soil testing kit from a garden center or by sending a sample to a soil testing laboratory. The results will give you information on your soil’s pH level, nutrient levels, and organic matter content.

4. How do I amend my soil?

You can amend your soil by adding organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or aged manure. This will help to improve soil structure, fertility, and water-holding capacity.

5. What is the best way to till soil?

The best way to till soil is to use a garden fork or a tiller. Start by breaking up the soil with a garden fork or cultivator, then use a tiller to further loosen and aerate the soil.

6. How often should I till my soil?

You should only till your soil when necessary, such as when preparing a new bed or when incorporating amendments. Over-tilling can damage soil structure and harm beneficial soil organisms.

7. Can I plant directly into unprepared soil?

You can plant directly into unprepared soil, but your plants may not grow as well. Unprepared soil can be compacted, lacking in nutrients, and may contain weeds and pests.

8. How do I prevent weeds from growing in my soil?

You can prevent weeds from growing by using a weed barrier or by applying mulch to the soil surface. Mulch will also help to retain soil moisture and regulate soil temperature.

9. How do I ensure proper drainage in my soil?

You can ensure proper drainage by amending your soil with organic matter, avoiding over-watering, and planting in raised beds or mounds. Adding drainage tiles or gravel to the bottom of planting holes can also help improve drainage.

10. How deep should I plant my seeds?

The depth at which you should plant your seeds will depend on the specific plant. As a general rule, plant seeds at a depth that is two to three times their diameter.

11. How do I know if my soil is healthy?

You can tell if your soil is healthy by looking for signs of healthy plant growth, such as vibrant leaves and strong stems. Soil that is rich in organic matter and has a balanced pH level will also support healthy plant growth.

12. What should I do if my soil is too acidic or alkaline?

If your soil is too acidic, you can amend it with lime to raise the pH level. If your soil is too alkaline, you can amend it with sulfur to lower the pH level. It is important to test your soil before making any amendments to ensure that you are making the correct adjustments.