Step-by-Step Guide on Stripping Wooden Furniture

Home Improvement

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Removing an old finish from wooden furniture can be done using several methods, but some are more challenging than others. Lacquer and shellac finishes can be removed with only alcohol or lacquer thinner and a bit of muscle. On the other hand, paint and varnish finishes are more common and usually require paint and varnish remover. Meanwhile, oil, wax, and penetrating sealer finishes are less common and also removed using paint and varnish remover. In this article, we’ll share the steps on how to strip your wooden furniture’s old finish, including some shortcut methods.

Lacquer and Shellac: Easy Finish Removal

Before using a paint and varnish remover on your furniture, test the finish first using denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. Older furniture often has a shellac or lacquer finish, and it can be challenging to identify the finish just by looking at it. Shellac and lacquer are both clear finishes, like varnish, but are easier to remove. Spending some time testing the finish can help you save several hours of work.

Begin by testing the finish with denatured alcohol. If the finish liquefies, it’s shellac. If it becomes soft but doesn’t dissolve, it’s a combination of shellac and lacquer. Test the surface again using lacquer thinner; if it liquefies, it’s lacquer. Shellac can be removed using denatured alcohol, lacquer using lacquer thinner, and a shellac-lacquer combination using a 50-50 mixture of denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. Chemical stripping isn’t necessary for these types of finishes.

Apply the appropriate solvent to a portion of the furniture piece using an old or disposable brush. Let the alcohol or thinner work for 5 to 10 seconds and then wipe it off using a rough cloth or steel wool. If the finish comes off easily, you can remove the entire finish with the alcohol or thinner, and paint and varnish remover isn’t needed. Work quickly, as alcohol and lacquer thinner evaporate fast. Clean small sections at a time and change cloths frequently to prevent the old finish from being reapplied to the furniture.

Once the finish is removed, go over the entire furniture piece using a scraper to remove any remaining traces of finish. A furniture scraper is ideal, or use steel wool dipped in thinner. Always scrape with the wood grain, and be careful not to dig into the wood. Sand the wood smooth if necessary. Neutralizing isn’t required. After sanding, the furniture piece is ready to be sealed, bleached, stained, or finished.

The only downside to lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol is that they only work on lacquer and shellac. If the old finish is varnish or paint, or if there’s a stain under the shellac or lacquer, you’ll have to use the more demanding methods of paint and varnish removers.

Learn how to pick the right paint and varnish remover for your project in the next section.

Picking the Right Paint and Varnish Remover

Most hardware and paint stores, home centers, drugstores, variety stores, and even grocery stores offer many types of paint and varnish removers. All soften old finishes so they can be scraped, washed, steel-wooled, or sanded off. However, there are differences among removers in terms of chemical content, removal techniques, and price.

Cheap paint and varnish removers are not always a good deal as they may contain paraffin, which gives wood an oily appearance and prevents new finishes from adhering properly. This means that turpentine or mineral spirits must be used to remove the paraffin, which is an extra expense. In addition, these inexpensive removers may be highly toxic and flammable, so proper ventilation and safety precautions are necessary.

More expensive paint and varnish removers may contain special wax to prolong the evaporation process, but this must also be removed after stripping. Some removers do not contain wax but require extra precautions against evaporation. The most expensive removers are water-rinsing and claim to provide a clean finish, but they should not be used on veneers or inlays as water can damage these materials.

Removers are available in liquid or semi-paste forms, with semi-paste removers designed for vertical surfaces. While these semi-paste removers may also have wax and toxicity concerns, nonflammable and nontoxic options are available. These thick removers can be used on flat surfaces as well as vertical.

When it comes to removing old finishes from furniture, there are a variety of options available. While pricier wash-away removers may save you time and effort, it’s important to consider factors like flammability and toxicity. Semi-paste removers are a good starting point, but experimenting with different types is key to finding what works for you. Refinishing kits can be a great all-in-one solution, providing paint and varnish remover, steel wool, stain, and top finishes. Once you’ve chosen your remover, there are some fundamental techniques to follow: prepare the furniture by removing hardware and protecting delicate finishes with painter’s tape or cloth, apply the remover, let it work, and then remove both the old finish and the remover.

If a piece of furniture is covered with upholstery, it may require new upholstery. Remove the old fabric before refinishing and make any necessary repairs to the webbing or support. After refinishing, replace the upholstery. If you want to keep the old upholstery, it’s best to remove the fabric before working on the finish, but only if you can reapply it. For larger pieces, have a professional remove and replace the fabric.

When using paint and varnish remover, there are two essential rules to follow: use a sufficient amount of remover and allow it ample time to work. Don’t skimp on materials or time. Applying paint remover is a tedious task that is messy and smelly, so it’s critical to protect your workspace. Cover your worktable and the surrounding area with a thick layer of kraft paper or a plastic dropcloth. Be cautious with dropcloths since the plastic is slippery. Ensure that you have adequate ventilation, keep the remover away from any open flames, and cover your skin to prevent irritation.

All removers, whether paste or liquid, wash-away or scrape-away, are applied in the same way. Since chemicals evaporate quickly, it’s best to work in small sections, such as 3×3-foot areas. To prevent the remover from dripping off, it’s always best to work on a flat surface. You may need to turn the furniture piece while working on it.

Use a wide brush to apply the paint remover, or pour it on and distribute it with a brush. The quality or condition of the brush does not matter. Apply the remover to the surface using the flat of the brush, and don’t spread out the mixture like paint. Use enough remover, and then add more, coating the surface thickly.

Use the brush only to distribute the remover since brushing causes the remover to lose some of its removal power. The solution evaporates quickly, especially when brushed.

After applying a thick coating of remover, cover the surface with aluminum foil to slow evaporation. Aluminum foil is essential for removers that do not contain wax, although it also helps slow the evaporation of waxed removers. For vertical surfaces that cannot be laid flat, use a semi-paste remover and try to cover it with foil.

Wait approximately 30 minutes before testing the results of the remover. Don’t test the remover after 5, 10, or 20 minutes, but after 25 to 30 minutes or even more. Experimentation will show you the optimum time, but taking time at the outset will save you time in the long run.

While waiting, apply the remover to another section of the furniture. Don’t remove any old finish from areas that won’t be visible when the furniture is restored. Once you start working on these surfaces, you must finish them. Work on the visible areas instead, and leave table bottoms and the insides of drawers untouched.

After 30 minutes, remove the foil covering the treated area and conduct a test. The area should appear bubbly and cracked. Put on rubber gloves and rub a small section of the bubbly area with your finger. If you can easily reach the bare wood, it is time to remove the old finish using the paint remover.

If you cannot easily reach bare wood, wait another ten minutes and try again. After 40 minutes, the paint remover stops working. If you are using a non-wash-away remover and cannot easily reach bare wood after this time, use a wide-bladed putty knife to scrape away all the old finish. If you are using a wash-away remover, rinse off the old remover and as much finish as you can with water. Apply another thick coat of the remover and wait again. Try the finger test again. If it still does not work, scrape or wash off all the old gunk you can and apply more remover. Repeat this process until you reach the bare wood, and be sure to give the remover enough time to work.

The technique you use to remove the final finish depends on what kind of remover you have chosen. More stripping techniques for furniture are detailed in the next section.

Different removers require different techniques for final removal. Once you have conducted the test and determined that the finish is ready to be removed, use the appropriate technique for wash-away, waxed, or non-waxed removers.

To remove wash-away compounds, use medium-fine steel wool and water. Do not use a scraper, putty knife, sandpaper, power equipment, or heat. If possible, hose off the furniture outside. Otherwise, use a brush to apply the water and steel wool to clean the wood. Use special removal techniques for curved or carved areas. Dry the wood thoroughly with a soft towel or absorbent cloth immediately after cleaning, as water damages wood. Air-dry the wood for several days before continuing with the refinishing process.

Remove non-wash-away compounds with a scraper and steel wool, taking care not to gouge the wood. To minimize mess, dump the scrapings into a bucket as you work. Use special removal techniques for curved or carved areas.

If the remover contains paraffin or wax, scrub the surface immediately with turpentine or mineral spirits. Work the cleaning solution into all the dips, dings, cracks, and carvings. Change the cleaning cloth frequently to avoid transferring the paraffin or wax back onto the wood. Remove the paraffin or wax now, rather than sanding it off later.

If the remover you are using is not doing a satisfactory job, switch to another remover. However, do not mix paint and varnish removers. Follow through with the complete removal of the first chemical before applying another one. Mixing the chemicals may not work, but it is not dangerous.

To effectively remove non-wash-away, nonwax removers, it’s recommended to use denatured alcohol. Apply the alcohol generously onto the bare wood with a soft, clean cloth and allow it to dry completely. Follow up with wiping the wood with mineral spirits to prepare it for refinishing.

After finishing the job, it’s important to lay out paper coverings, plastic drop cloths, brushes, and cloths used for applying paint and varnish remover to dry before disposing of them properly. Avoid stuffing waste materials in a wastebasket or trash can as the remover chemicals can cause spontaneous combustion.

While removing old finishes from legs, curves, and other non-flat surfaces on wooden furniture, there are some non-chemical shortcuts that can be used. However, power sanding, lye, and heat are not recommended as they can cause considerable damage to the wood and even harm the person using them.

Power sanders can remove large amounts of old finish quickly but should only be used by professionals. Lye, commonly used for opening drains, is highly effective but can also be dangerous to handle and can discolor wood. Ammonia is the only effective option for removing old milk paint, but it should be used with caution as it can darken the wood and produce strong fumes. Heat should only be used as a last resort and can easily damage the wood.

Heating is not a very useful method for removing finishes, as it only works on flat or slightly curved surfaces and is not effective on clear finishes like lacquer, shellac, and varnish. Additionally, it can be dangerous and can easily scorch or char the wood. Therefore, it is not worth the risk or effort. Instead, there are several tricks that can be used to make the process of stripping finishes from wooden furniture quicker and easier.

When working with furniture components like rungs, rounds, arms, and legs, which have vertical or cylindrical surfaces, it can be difficult to apply chemical finish remover effectively. To solve this problem, a thick coating of semi-paste remover can be applied to the part, which is then folded in aluminum foil to hold the remover in place and prevent it from evaporating too quickly. For furniture legs, a nail can be driven into the bottom of each leg to elevate it and catch any remover that drips off.

To clean crevices, cracks, and joints, sanding rope, steel wool, string, or hemp rope can be used to wipe away the remover. Multiple applications of remover may be necessary for these areas, as finishes tend to build up in these spots. By removing the finish, the original design of the piece can be restored.

When cleaning crevices and cracks, there are various impromptu tools that you can use such as a sharpened wooden dowel, a plastic or credit card, a nut pick, an old spoon, a broken end of an ice cream stick, an orange stick, or wood toothpicks.

Dealing with Curves and Carvings

It is important to be careful when cleaning curves and carvings, especially shallow ones, as scraping could damage or alter the wood’s shape. You can use a medium-fine steel wool to clean curves, wiping firmly along the curve. For carvings, use steel wool, a toothbrush, and the crevice-cleaning tools mentioned earlier, making sure not to gouge the wood. When dealing with delicate carvings, only use wood or plastic tools.

Once you have removed the finish, there may still be some stubborn spots left. In the next section, you will learn about using gentle methods like steel wool on the bare wood to get rid of these spots.

Cleaning Up After Stripping

©2006 Publications International, Ltd. A rubber kitchen scraper is a helpful tool for removing softened finish from hard-to-reach and easily damaged areas like moldings.

Even after using chemical removal methods, some spots of finish may still remain. There are a few alternatives for dealing with these spots. Here are some of them:

Using Steel Wool

Steel wool is the best way to remove leftover spots from flat, round, and easy-to-reach areas. Dip some medium-fine (O) steel wool in chemical paint remover, and try to scrub off the remaining finish. Repeat the stripping process with another application of the remover if necessary. Once the finish comes loose, wash it off with water if the remover is washable, rub it down with turpentine or mineral spirits if the remover contains wax, or rub it down with denatured alcohol if the remover is neither washable nor waxed. When the wool becomes full of old finish, dispose of it and use a new piece.

Using Sandpaper

If steel wool doesn’t get rid of the residual spots, try sandpaper. However, be careful not to leave depressions in the wood surface. Sandpaper can be used throughout to strip the finish off the furniture, but it is a time-consuming process and more likely to damage the wood.

Sandpaper works by scratching the wood surface, so keep this in mind to prevent over-sanding. Use a sanding block on flat surfaces and a foam block on curves, and sand rounds gently. Always sand with the wood grain to avoid permanent scratches. Start with medium-grit paper to remove the last traces of the old finish, and then lightly sand along the wood grain with fine-grit paper. This last fine-grit sanding should prepare the wood sufficiently for the finishing process. If you think the wood isn’t smooth enough, finish the job with a very-fine-grit sandpaper.

Using Scrapers

When regular sanding techniques don’t work, scrapers can be used to remove the finish from hard-to-reach areas. While they are effective, they can also easily scratch or damage the wood, so it’s important to be cautious. Scrape tight spots between sandpaper grits or steel wool grades to minimize any differences in texture and height between scraped and sanded surfaces.

For removing finish from corners, flats, contours, and tapers, a good sharp pull scraper is recommended. It’s important to use the scraper with the grain of the wood and keep the blade sharp, as scraper blades dull quickly. There are many types of scrapers available, from putty knives and paint scrapers to cabinet scrapers and scraper blades. In some cases, a sharp butt chisel or even the edge of a coin can also be used as a scraper.

Electric Drill Attachments

If hand-powered methods fail, electric drill attachments like wire brushes and rotary sanding attachments can be used. However, it’s important to work slowly and carefully, as these attachments can quickly damage the wood. A rotary sanding attachment consists of small strips of sandpaper that spin around as the drill spins, while a wire brush can also be used.

There are many ways to remove old finish from furniture, and understanding your options and objectives is important for success.

©Publications International, Ltd.

Originally Published: Apr 13, 2006

Frequently Asked Questions about Stripping Furniture

What is the process for sanding old wooden furniture?

To sand old furniture, you can use a palm or electric sander with 150 grit sandpaper until the natural wood underneath is visible. Then, use fine sandpaper – approximately 200 grit – to sand the entire piece for uniformity. Finally, wipe off any remaining dust using a cloth.

Is stripping or sanding furniture a better option?

It’s a personal preference, but many people prefer to strip old furniture, particularly if it has been painted multiple times. Sanding can be time-consuming and dusty, especially if the finish is flaking off, so using a paint or stain stripper is a better option.

What is the most effective way to strip stain from wooden furniture?

To strip the stain from wooden furniture, apply a thick layer of stripper using a paintbrush or cloth. Allow the stripper to sit for around 20 minutes, following the product’s instructions. Then, use a putty knife to remove the residue and clean the furniture by scrubbing it in the direction of the wood grain with a clean steel-wool pad. If necessary, you can either sand it down after letting it dry for 24 hours or repeat the process.

What are the best products to use for furniture stripping?

There are a variety of furniture strippers available at your local hardware store. Popular paint-stripping brands include Citristrip, Smart Strip, and Max Strip. Mineral spirits and paint thinner are commonly used to strip stain and varnish.

Can vinegar be used to remove paint stains from wood furniture?

Vinegar is a cost-effective and simple way to remove dried paint from wood furniture. Heat a small amount of white vinegar in the microwave and apply it to the paint. Allow it to sit for roughly 15 minutes to soften the paint before using a scraper to gently remove any paint residue.

FAQ

1. What is the best way to remove old paint from wooden furniture?

The best way to remove old paint from wooden furniture is by using a paint stripper. Apply the paint stripper to the furniture and let it sit for the recommended amount of time. Once the paint has bubbled up, use a scraper to remove it. Be sure to wear gloves and protective eyewear while using a paint stripper, as it can be harmful to your skin and eyes.

2. Can I use sandpaper to strip wooden furniture?

Yes, you can use sandpaper to strip wooden furniture. However, it is more time-consuming and labor-intensive than using a paint stripper. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper and work your way up to a finer grit. Be sure to sand in the direction of the grain to avoid damaging the wood.

3. What is the best way to remove varnish from wooden furniture?

The best way to remove varnish from wooden furniture is by using a chemical stripper. Apply the stripper to the furniture and let it sit for the recommended amount of time. Once the varnish has bubbled up, use a scraper to remove it. Be sure to wear gloves and protective eyewear while using a chemical stripper, as it can be harmful to your skin and eyes.

4. Can I use a heat gun to strip wooden furniture?

Yes, you can use a heat gun to strip wooden furniture. Hold the heat gun a few inches away from the surface and move it back and forth until the paint or varnish begins to bubble. Use a scraper to remove the bubbled-up paint or varnish. Be sure to wear gloves and protective eyewear while using a heat gun, as it can get very hot.

5. How do I prepare wooden furniture for stripping?

To prepare wooden furniture for stripping, remove any hardware or upholstery. Clean the surface of the furniture with a mild detergent and water, then let it dry completely. Sand any rough areas to ensure an even surface for the stripper to adhere to.

6. How long does it take to strip wooden furniture?

The amount of time it takes to strip wooden furniture depends on the size of the piece and the method you are using. Chemical strippers typically take 30 minutes to several hours to work, while sanding and heat guns can take several hours to a few days.

7. What should I do after stripping wooden furniture?

After stripping wooden furniture, clean the surface with a mild detergent and water to remove any residue from the stripper. Let the furniture dry completely before sanding or refinishing. If there are any imperfections or bare spots, fill them with wood filler before sanding.

8. Can I paint or stain wooden furniture after stripping?

Yes, you can paint or stain wooden furniture after stripping. Sand the surface to ensure an even finish, then apply the paint or stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure to let the paint or stain dry completely before using the furniture.