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The toilet is an essential plumbing fixture in any home, but it’s not uncommon to experience problems with it. Clogging is the most frequent issue, but there are others, such as strange noises from the tank or continuous water running. Luckily, most toilet issues can be fixed by the homeowner, with no need to call a plumber.

If you’re a DIY enthusiast, you’ll want to learn some quick fixes to avoid costly plumbing bills. This article will cover various toilet repairs you can do yourself.

How to Replace a Toilet Seat

Replacing the seat and lid is the easiest toilet repair task. There are numerous replacement styles available, so finding one that matches your bathroom color scheme or motif should be easy. Most modern toilets come in two standard sizes, and replacement seats are designed to fit them.

Once you have the right size seat, remove the old one. Remove the two nuts on the hinge and lift your old toilet seat up and out. The nuts securing the toilet seat may be rusted or corroded, making removal difficult. Some toilet seats have recessed nuts that are almost impossible to reach, making the task even harder.

To install a new toilet seat, insert the two bolts, slip on the washers, and tighten the nuts. Don’t over-tighten the nuts, or you might have difficulty removing the seat later.

How do you remove stubborn nuts? Apply some penetrating oil to the fasteners if you can reach them easily. Allow the oil plenty of time to soak in. Use a wrench or, if you can’t access the nuts with a regular wrench, a deep socket wrench. Don’t use too much force; if the wrench slips off a stubborn nut, it could hit and crack the bowl or tank or anything else nearby.

Sink, Tub and Drain Troubleshooting Guide

This table provides solutions for common problems related to sinks, tubs, and drains. Each problem is listed with its possible cause and solution.

Problem	Possible Cause	Solution
Water in tank runs constantly	Float ball or rod is misaligned.	Bend float rod carefully to move ball so it will not rub against side of tank.
Float ball contains water.	Empty or replace float ball.
Float ball not rising high enough.	Carefully bend float rod down, but only slightly.
Tank ball not sealing properly at bottom of tank.	Remove any corrosion from lip of valve seat. Replace tank ball if worn. Adjust lift wire and guide.
Ballcock valve does not shut off water.	Replace washers in ballcock assembly or, if necessary, replace entire assembly.
Toilet does not flush or flushes inadequately	Drain is clogged.	Remove blockage in drain.
Not enough water in tank.	Raise water in tank by bending float rod up slightly.
Tank ball falls back before enough water leaves tank.	Move guide up so tank ball can rise higher.
Leak where tank joins toilet bowl.	Tighten nuts on spud pipe; replace spud washers, if necessary.
Ports around bowl rim clogged.	Ream out residue from ports.
Tank whines while filling	Ballcock valve not operating properly.	Replace washers or install new ballcock assembly
Water supply is restricted.	Check shutoff to make sure it’s completely open. Check for scale or corrosion at entry into tank on valve.
Moisture around fixture	Condensation.	Install foam liner, tank cover, drip catcher or temperature valve.
Leak at flange wax seal.	Remove toilet and install new wax ring seal.
Leak at bowl-tank connection.	Tighten spud pipe nuts; replace worn spud washers, if necessary.
Leak at water inlet connection.	Tighten locknut and coupling nut; replace washers and gasket, if necessary.
Crack in bowl or tank.	Replace bowl, tank, or entire fixture.

If none of the solutions listed above work, you may need to cut off the bolts with a hacksaw. To avoid damaging the fixture, apply tape to the spots where the hacksaw blade may rub against the bowl. Use caution when sawing the bolts, as a careless slip can crack the fixture just as easily as a blow with a wrench.

Once the nuts are removed or the bolts are cut, the old seat can be removed easily. Clean the area before installing the new seat. To install the new seat, insert the bolts and tighten the nuts, being careful not to over-tighten them. If you live in a rented apartment and install a new seat that you paid for yourself, keep the old one so you can replace the new one with the original when you move out.

If the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the toilet lid and seat are damaged, you can purchase replacements from the hardware store. Some of these bumpers can be screwed in, while others require nailing or gluing. When installing new bumpers, try to conceal the original holes as much as possible.

To unclog a toilet, use a plunger by ensuring that the suction cup is covered with enough water in the bowl. If there isn’t enough water, do not flush the toilet to avoid overflowing. Instead, bring water from another source to cover the cup. There are two types of plungers, and the one with a bulb-type head is more effective for toilets. If plunging doesn’t work, try using a wire coat hanger or an auger to hook and remove the blockage.

In case of tank problems like strange noises or continuous water running, there may be a need for quick and easy solutions to eliminate the issue. These problems can lead to wasted water and higher bills.

Toilet tank issues are common and can be frustrating, not to mention costly due to wasted water. However, most problems can be resolved easily and quickly. A typical toilet tank and its components are shown in a cross-section. Once you understand how the toilet operates, you can determine the cause of the toilet tank problems by removing the lid of the tank.

When the handle on the tank is activated to flush the toilet, a trip lever inside the tank is raised. This lever lifts wires that raise the tank ball or rubber flap at the tank’s bottom, allowing water to flow out of the tank, past the raised ball and into the bowl, and increasing the water level in the bowl above the trap’s level.

While the water is flowing out of the tank, the float ball, which floats on top of the water in the tank, drops down and pulls down the float arm, raising the valve plunger and allowing fresh water to enter the tank. Water from the tank pushes the bowl water out into the drain, causing a siphoning action that clears everything out of the bowl. When the water is gone from the bowl and air is drawn into the trap, the siphoning stops. The tank ball falls into place, closing the flush valve opening.

As the water level in the tank rises, the float ball rises until the float arm is high enough to lower the valve plunger in the ballcock assembly and stop the incoming water. If the water fails to shut off, the overflow tube carries excess water down into the bowl to prevent the tank from overflowing. If water continues to flow continuously out of the tank to the bowl and down the drain, there are two steps to take.

First, lift the float arm. If the water stops, the float ball isn’t rising far enough to lower the valve plunger in the ballcock assembly. There could be a problem with the float ball rubbing against the tank’s side, which can be solved by bending the float arm slightly to move the ball away from the tank side.

Second, if the ball doesn’t touch the tank, remove the ball from the end of the arm by turning it counterclockwise while still holding the float arm. Shake the ball to see if there’s water inside it, as the weight of the water inside could be preventing the ball from rising normally. If there is water in the ball, shake it out and put the ball back on the float arm. If the ball is damaged or corroded, replace it with a new one. If there is no water in the ball, put the ball back on and gently bend the float rod down to lower the level the float ball must reach to shut off the flow of fresh water into the tank.

How to Troubleshoot and Fix a Running Toilet

If your toilet won’t stop running, it can lead to a lot of wasted water and a higher water bill. Here are some steps to troubleshoot and fix the problem:

Step 1: Check the Float Ball

First, check the float ball. If it’s not floating properly, it won’t trigger the valve to shut off the water. Adjust the float ball so it’s sitting at the right level and see if that solves the problem.

Step 2: Check the Tank Flapper

If the float ball isn’t the issue, check the tank flapper. Sometimes the flapper can get tangled or worn out, which can cause water to continuously drain into the bowl. Adjust or replace the flapper if necessary.

Step 3: Check the Tank Ball

If the first two steps don’t solve the problem, check the tank ball. Chemical residue from the water can prevent it from seating properly or the ball itself may have decayed. Turn off the water at the shutoff valve, flush the toilet and examine the tank ball for signs of wear. If necessary, install a new ball. If the problem is residue on the lip of the flush valve opening, use wet-dry emery cloth or steel wool to clean it away.

Step 4: Check the Guide or Lift Wire

If excess water is still flowing through the toilet, check the guide or lift wire that raises and lowers the tank ball. Make sure the guide is in place and rotate it until the tank ball falls straight down into the opening. If a lift wire is bent, try to bend it back into position or install a new one. Make sure the trip lever rod is not rubbing against anything and the lift wire is not installed in the wrong hole of the rod.

If neither the float ball nor the tank ball is at fault, then the problem must be in the ballcock assembly. To fix an older-style ballcock assembly:

Fixing a Toilet Ballcock Assembly

Step 1: Turn off the water shutoff valve for the toilet.

On many older ballcock assemblies, a pair of thumbscrews holds the valve
plunger. You will have to unscrew them to remove the valve.

Step 2: Remove the valve plunger and check the washers or O-rings. Replace any that are faulty.

Step 3: If the ballcock assembly is sealed, replace it as a unit. Shut off the toilet water supply at the shutoff valve and flush the tank. Unscrew the float arm from the old ballcock unit and remove the refill tube from the overflow tube.

Step 4: Check for a coupling or slip nut beneath the tank where the water inlet pipe enters the base of the tank. Loosen the coupling nut to free the water inlet pipe. Then, use an adjustable wrench to hold the retaining nut or locknut immediately above the sip nut under the tank. Use another wrench to hold the base of the ballcock assembly shaft inside the tank.

Step 5: Remove the ballcock assembly by unscrewing the locknut beneath the tank. If the nut is difficult to remove, use penetrating oil to loosen it.

Step 6: Remove the old assembly out of the tank, keeping the washers from all connections, both inside and outside the tank. New washers will likely be provided with the replacement unit, but keep the old parts until the new ballcock assembly is installed in case new parts are damaged during installation.

When installing a new ballcock assembly, be sure that the gasket and washer are properly seated and firmly secured by the retaining unit.

Step 7: Place the new ballcock assembly into the hole in the tank. With the inside washer in place, tighten the locknut on the outside enough to make the inside washer fit watertight against the hole, but do not over-tighten it.

Step 8: Replace the coupling nut and water inlet pipe, reinstall the float arm, and position the refill tube into the overflow tube.

Step 9: Turn the water back on at the toilet shutoff valve and check for leaks at all points. Also, make sure the float ball does not rub against the back of the tank.

Newer types of ballcock assemblies eliminate the float arm and the float ball. One kind has a plastic cup that floats up to cut off the water as the tank fills. You can adjust the water level in the tank by positioning the plastic cup on a pull rod. This type of ballcock assembly lets the water run full-force until the tank is filled, then shuts off the water immediately, which eliminates the groaning noises some toilets make as a float arm gradually closes the valve.

Another type of ballcock also eliminates the float ball and float arm. This is a small unit that rests almost on the bottom of the tank, and its diaphragm-powered valve senses the water level from down there. Moreover, since it requires no tools, this assembly is an easy unit to install. To install these newer ballcock assemblies:

Step 1: Turn off the water supply shutoff valve to the tank. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank. Soak up any water left in the tank before proceeding.

Step 2: Remove the old ballcock assembly, following the steps outlined above. Then, slide the parts over the water inlet pipe under the tank in the following order: coupling nut, friction washer, cone washer, and retaining or mounting nut.

Step 3: Insert the new unit into the tank with the threaded shank passing through the hole over the water supply pipe and ensure that the gasket fits into the hole. Tighten the retaining or mounting nut under the tank onto the threaded shank by hand only. Place the washers in position and hand-tighten the coupling nut under the tank, being careful not to overtighten it.

Step 4: Connect one end of the refill tube to the overflow pipe of the tank and attach the other end to the stem of the replacement unit inside the tank.

Step 5: Open the water supply valve to fill the tank. The water level can be adjusted by the knob on the new valve unit.

Resolving Common Toilet Issues

What should you do if the tank does not release enough water to properly flush the toilet bowl?

Step 1: Check the water level in the tank. It may be too low. If the water level is not within 1 ½ inches of the top of the overflow tube, slightly adjust the float arm to allow more water to enter the tank.

Step 2: If the water level is accurate but inadequate water is still flowing from the tank to clean the bowl, the issue may be the tank ball on the flush valve seat at the bottom of the tank. The ball may be dropping too quickly because the guide is set too low. Adjust the guide, but ensure it remains aligned with the lift wire. If the guide and wire are not in line, the tank ball will not drop straight into the valve seat opening, and the toilet will run continuously.

Step 3: Check for other reasons for insufficient flushing. The small ports on the underside of the toilet bowl rim can become clogged with residue from chemicals in the water, preventing an adequate amount of tank water from flowing into the bowl. A small mirror can assist you in inspecting the holes, and a piece of wire coat hanger or an offset Phillips screwdriver, if available, can unclog any debris.

Another common issue with toilets is tank sweating and dripping onto the floor. There are jackets specifically designed to fit over the tank and absorb the moisture. Drip pans are also available to fit under the tank and catch the dripping condensation, preventing damage to the bathroom floor. A temperator valve is another solution for tank sweating. The valve supplies a regulated mixture of hot and cold water, reducing the temperature difference between the inside of the tank and the surrounding air, which causes condensation or sweating. If the water in the tank is typically below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, consider installing a temperator valve.

To prevent toilet tank sweating, a temperator valve is required that connects both hot and cold water supply lines. However, installing the valve can be inconvenient if there is no hot water line nearby. Even with the valve, condensation can still occur if the water in the tank cools between flushes. If a leak is detected, it could be due to loose connections or defective washers on the spud pipe or where the water inlet pipe and ballcock assembly are attached to the tank. In such cases, replace the gaskets or washers and tighten all the nuts before testing with bluing in the water. Another possible cause of leaks is a defective wax ring seal between the bowl and the drain outlet. This requires removing the bowl and installing a new gasket. Cracks in the tank or bowl indicate that the entire toilet needs replacing.

Replacing a Toilet

Replacing a toilet is not a task to be taken lightly, but it can be done easily if needed. If you cannot unclog the toilet with less drastic methods or if you want a more modern toilet, then removing and reinstalling the old toilet or installing a new fixture is necessary. However, local plumbing codes may require a licensed plumber to do this job, so check your community’s code before proceeding. To replace a toilet:

Step 1: Measure the rough-in distance, which is the distance from the wall behind the bowl to the center of the toilet floor drain. Measure from the wall to the center of either of the two hold-down bolts, or to the center of the rear bolt if there are two on each side.

Step 2: Select a replacement toilet unit that fits properly in your bathroom based on the rough-in distance. You can opt for a more modern unit, but ensure it fits between the drainpipe and the wall. A smaller unit is fine, but a larger toilet cannot replace a smaller fixture.

Step 3: Turn off the water supply to the toilet tank and drain all the water from the tank and bowl. Flush the handle to eliminate most of the water from the tank and use a sponge to soak up any remaining water. Remove the water in the bowl with a small container and then dry it completely with a sponge.

Step 4: If the tank is connected to the wall, remove the hanger bolts inside the tank that secure it to the wall. Then, remove the pair of bolts connecting the tank to the bowl at the bottom. Move the tank out of the way.

Step 5: If there are any caps covering the hold-down bolts at the base of the bowl, remove them. Most of these caps are made of ceramic to match the bowl. Some types are held on by plumbers’ join compound and can be removed using a putty knife, while others are threaded and can be unscrewed. After removing the caps, clear away the dried compound before proceeding.

Step 6: Remove the hold-down nuts or bolts. These may be difficult to remove, but some penetrating oil should make it easier. If you plan on reinstalling the bowl, keep the washers and bolts. Once the hold-down nuts or bolts are removed, nothing else will hold the bowl to the floor. Caution: To prevent sewer gas from backing up the drain, plug the opening while you work. Tie a cord around an old towel so that it won’t fall through the opening, and plug the drain with it.

Step 7: Remove the bowl. To avoid cracking the bowl and tank from a sharp blow to the porcelain, place an old piece of carpeting under the fixtures. Have a bucket and sponge nearby to soak up any water that you couldn’t bail out earlier. With your work surface prepared, gently rock the bowl back and forth to loosen it, then lift it straight up. It weighs about 60 or 70 pounds. Place the bowl on the piece of carpeting.

Step 8: Inspect the exposed drain and clear it if necessary. Once the pipe is clear, proceed with the replacement of the toilet.

Step 9: Installing a new toilet and reinstalling the old one are done in the same way. Use a putty knife to scrape away all the old putty or other sealing material from the bottom of the bowl and the floor flange.

Inspect the floor where the toilet was. If the floor is rotted, it will need to be rebuilt before the toilet can be installed. Depending on the extent of the damage, the rebuilding may involve the floor, the subfloor, and even the joists. In this case, have a carpenter rebuild the damaged area before installing the toilet. Also, inspect the flange and bolts that come up from the flange. If the flange or bolts are damaged or stripped, replace the faulty part or parts before proceeding.

Step 10: Install a new sealer ring on the water outlet opening on the bottom of the new bowl. With the fixture upside down, place the sealer ring into position on the bottom of the bowl. If the floor flange is recessed, you’ll need a gasket with a plastic sleeve in the ring. The sleeve should face you as you position it since it will go into the soil pipe.

Step 11: Apply a uniform layer of the toilet-bowl setting compound, about 2 1/8 inch thick, around the edge of the bowl at the base. You can find this compound at hardware stores and plumbing-supply stores.

Installing a Toilet: Steps 12-15

To continue with the installation of your toilet, follow these steps:

Step 12: Placing the Bowl

To place the bowl, remove the plug from the drain or soil pipe. Turn the bowl right side up and place it down over the flange, guiding the bolts into place. Press down firmly, and give the bowl a slight twist to make sure the wax ring seats properly against the flange. Place a level across the bowl to ensure that it is level. If it is not, move the bowl as needed to level it, but be careful not to disturb or break the seal of the wax ring or the toilet will leak.

Step 13: Hand-Tighten the Nuts

Hand-tighten the nuts to hold the bowl to the floor. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts, or the fixture may crack. Coat the hold-down nuts and bolts with toilet bowl setting compound and reinstall the caps.

Step 14: Attaching the Tank

If the tank and bowl are separate fixtures, attach the tank. Rebolt a wall-mounted tank, or reinstall the bolts and washers that connect a bowl-supported tank. Replace any damaged parts. If the tank and bowl are connected with a spud pipe, apply pipe joint compound to the threads of the spud slip nuts and tighten them in place.

Step 15: Reconnecting the Water Supply

Reconnect the water supply inlet pipe to the tank, make sure the ballcock assembly is properly attached, and turn the water back on.

Lots More Information

For more information about toilets and other household appliances, check out these related HowStuffWorks articles:

• How Toilets Work
• How Tankless Toilets Work
• How Low-flow Toilets Work
• How Dual Flush Toilets Work
• How to Repair a Dishwasher
• How to Repair a Dryer
• How to Repair Major Appliances
• Top 10 Appliances We Can’t Live Without

FAQ

1. What are the common toilet problems that need repair?

There are various common toilet problems, such as a running toilet, clog, slow-filling tank, leaky toilet, and weak flush. These problems can cause inconvenience and waste water, causing an increase in your water bills. However, if you have a basic understanding of how toilets work, you can troubleshoot and repair most problems by yourself.

2. How do I fix a running toilet?

A running toilet is a common problem that can waste a lot of water. First, check if the flapper is properly sealing the flush valve. If it’s not, adjust it or replace it. You can also check if the fill valve is not working correctly and adjust it or replace it if necessary.

3. What is the best way to unclog a toilet?

The best way to unclog a toilet is to use a plunger. First, make sure there is enough water in the bowl to cover the plunger. Then, place the plunger over the drain hole and push down and up a few times. If this doesn’t work, you can try a toilet auger or a drain snake. Avoid using chemical drain cleaners as they can damage your pipes.

4. How can I fix a slow-filling tank?

If your toilet tank is slow to fill, the problem could be a clogged fill valve or a low water pressure. Check the valve and clean or replace it if necessary. You can also adjust the float ball to fix the problem. If the water pressure is low, you may need to call a plumber to fix the problem.

5. How do I fix a leaky toilet?

A leaky toilet can waste a lot of water and cause damage to your bathroom floor. Check the flapper, bolts, and gasket for any damage or wear. Replace them if necessary. If the problem persists, you may need to call a plumber to fix the problem.

6. What causes a weak flush?

A weak flush can be caused by a clogged rim jets or a problem with the flapper or fill valve. Clean the rim jets with a wire hanger or a brush to remove any debris. Check the flapper and fill valve and replace them if necessary.

7. When should I call a professional plumber?

You should call a plumber if you are not sure how to fix the problem, or if the problem persists after you have tried to fix it. You should also call a plumber if you notice any water damage, foul smells, or mold in your bathroom. A professional plumber can identify and fix the problem quickly and efficiently.