Guide to Fixing Damaged Wooden Furniture Surfaces

Home Improvement

When it comes to wooden furniture, scratches, stains, and discoloration can occur easily. Fortunately, many of these issues can be repaired.

This article will provide you with tips and techniques to fix various types of damage, including burns, gouges, and hardware repair. We will begin with discussing how to remove stains and discoloration.

Eliminating Stains and Discoloration

Most finishes safeguard the surface of wooden furniture with a protective coating. Only work to the depth of the damage when repairing a damaged finish coating. Be cautious and don’t remove more of the finish than necessary. This article will cover simple techniques to help you remove stains, blushing, and other discoloration from the surfaces of wooden furniture.

White spots: Water and alcohol can leave permanent white spots or rings on shellac and lacquer finishes. Try polishing the surface with liquid furniture polish and buff the surface firmly. If this doesn’t work, lightly wipe the stained surface with denatured alcohol. Use as little alcohol as possible; too much will damage the finish.

If the white spots persist, the damaged finish must be treated with abrasives. Gentle abrasives can be purchased from a home-supply store. You can also create your own gentle abrasive by mixing cigarette ashes to a paste with a few drops of oil. Rub the ash-oil paste over the stained area, along the grain of the wood, and then wipe the surface clean with a soft cloth. Repeat the procedure if necessary. Stubborn spots may require several applications, followed by waxing and polishing the entire surface.

If rubbing with ashes is ineffective, go over the stained area with a mixture of rottenstone and linseed oil. Mix the rottenstone and oil to a thin paste, and rub the paste gently over the stain, along the grain of the wood. Take care not to cut too deep, and wipe the wood clean with a soft cloth as soon as the white spots disappear. Apply two coats of hard furniture wax and buff the wood to a shine.

Blushing: Blushing is a white haze over a large surface or an entire piece of furniture, caused by moisture in old shellac and lacquer finishes. Buff the surface lightly and evenly with No. 0000 steel wool dipped in linseed oil. Work with the grain of the wood, rubbing evenly on the entire surface until the white haze disappears. Then wipe the wood clean with a soft cloth, apply two coats of hard furniture wax, and buff the surface to a shine.

Reamalgamation may remove blushing, particularly if the surface is crazed or alligatored. If neither rubbing nor reamalgamation removes the haze, the piece of furniture must be refinished.

Black spots on wooden furniture are caused by water that has penetrated the finish and entered the wood. Unfortunately, they cannot be removed without damaging the finish. If the spots are on a clearly defined surface, it may be possible to remove the finish from this surface only. However, if the spots are widespread, the entire piece of furniture will have to be stripped. After removing the finish, bleach the entire stained surface with a solution of oxalic acid and refinish as necessary.

Ink stains that have penetrated the finish, like black water spots, cannot be removed without refinishing. However, less serious ink stains can sometimes be removed. Buff the stained area lightly with a cloth moistened with mineral spirits, then rinse the wood with clean water on a soft cloth. Dry the surface thoroughly, and then wax and polish it. If this does not remove the ink, rub the stained area along the grain of the wood with No. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirits. However, this treatment may damage the finish. If the damage is severe, the entire surface or piece of furniture will have to be refinished.

To remove grease, tar, paint, crayon, and lipstick spots, use the appropriate solvent on a soft cloth. If the deposit is dry, lift it off carefully with the edge of a putty knife. When the surface material has been removed, buff the area lightly along the grain of the wood with No. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirits. Then wax and polish the entire surface.

To remove wax and gum, press it with a packet of ice wrapped in a towel or paper towel. Let the deposit harden; then lift it off with your thumbnail. Do not scrape it off, or you’ll scratch the finish. When the wax or gum is completely removed, buff the area lightly along the grain of the wood with No. 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirits. Then wax and polish the entire surface.

If a repair involves removing the damaged finish completely, it will also involve refinishing the repair area. Spot refinishing can be challenging and may not always be successful, especially on stained surfaces. It is worth trying if the damage is not too severe. However, if you will have to touch up several areas on one surface, it is better to refinish the surface or the piece of furniture completely. To stain one area on a surface, use an oil-based stain that matches the surrounding stain. Test the stain on an inconspicuous unfinished part of the wood before working on the finished surface.

To prepare the damaged area for finishing, apply the stain with either an artists’ brush or a clean cloth, ensuring that the entire bare area is covered. Leave the stain to set for 15 minutes before wiping it off with a clean cloth. If the color is too light, apply another coat of stain, wait 15 minutes, and wipe again. Repeat this process until you’re happy with the color and allow the stain to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Next, lightly buff the stained surface with No. 0000 steel wool and wipe it clean with a tack cloth. Apply a new coat of finish that matches the surface’s old finish – varnish, penetrating resin, shellac, or lacquer – over the newly stained area. Feather out the new finish into the surrounding old finish and let it dry for one to two days. Lightly buff the patched area with No. 0000 steel wool and wax the entire surface with hard paste wax, polishing it to a shine. If your furniture has scratches, dings, or dents, you can hide small scratches by rubbing the meat of a nut along the scratch. For deeper scratches, use furniture-patching wax sticks to fill the scratch with wax, then remove any excess wax with a thin plastic card. For badly scratched surfaces, consider refinishing.

Dings

Dings refer to small chips in the finish that are usually caused by a sharp blow. The wood may remain unaffected. In order to fix a ding, use a sharp craft knife to remove any loose finish in or around the ding. Be careful while scraping the damaged spot with the flat, sharp edge of the knife blade and avoid scratching the spot. Then, carefully feather the edges of the ding with No. 0000 steel wool.

Next, clean the ding area with a soft cloth moistened in mineral spirits and let it dry completely. After that, apply new finish to the spot using an artist’s brush carefully. You can use varnish, shellac, lacquer, or enamel to match the rest of the finish. At first, the spot will be very noticeable. Let the finish dry, and it will become glossy. Then, lightly buff the spot with No. 0000 steel wool and wax and polish the entire piece of furniture. After the job is complete, the ding should blend perfectly.

Dents

Small and shallow dents in pine and other softwoods can be easily removed, but large and deep dents, especially in hardwood, can be challenging to repair. Dents are easiest to remove from bare wood. However, very large and shallow dents are better left untreated, while very deep ones should be filled as detailed below for cracks and gouges.

© Publications International, Ltd. Use a fine pin or needle to drive a series of small holes in a stubborn dent; then swell the wood to raise the dent.

On finished surfaces, you need to remove the finish around the damaged area. Using fine-grit sandpaper, remove the finish carefully for about 1/2 inch around the spot. To raise the wood in the dent, apply a few drops of water to the dent and let the water penetrate the wood for a day or so. Do not wet the entire surface. This treatment may be enough to raise the dent, especially if the dent is shallow and the wood is soft.

If this doesn’t help, soak a cloth in water and wring it out. Place the damp cloth, folded in several layers, over the dent and press the cloth firmly with a warm iron. However, be careful not to touch the iron directly to the wood. This moist heat may be sufficient to swell the wood and raise the dent. In case it isn’t, apply a commercial wood-swelling liquid to the area and give it time to work, around a day or so, as directed by the manufacturer.

For deep dents that cannot be raised with water, heat, or wood sweller, use a fine straight pin or needle to drive a series of holes in the dent. Pound the straight pin in about 1/4 inch and carefully pull it out with pliers. The holes should be as small as possible. Then treat the dent as you would for a shallow dent. The pinholes allow the water to penetrate the wood’s surface. If you’re careful, the holes won’t show when the wood has been raised.

After the dent has been raised, let the wood dry for approximately a week, and then refinish the damaged area as mentioned earlier. Let the finish dry entirely. Lightly buff the new finish with No. 0000 steel wool, and then wax and polish the entire surface.

Deeper cracks and gouges in the surface may require additional work. Learn the basic steps to repair cracks and gouges on wooden furniture in the next section.

Instructions for Fixing Cracks and Gouges

© Publications International, Ltd. Repairing cracks and gouges on wooden furniture is possible with some basic restoration techniques. However, if the damage is too severe, it may not be fixable. Follow these steps to repair cracks and gouges on your wooden furniture.

Fill deep cracks and gouges with wood filler or water putty. Ensure that the filler is slightly higher than the surface to allow for shrinkage as it dries. When the patch is dry, sand it smooth.

If your wooden furniture is old or excessively used, cracks and gouges are common problems. It is important to fill them so that they are level with the surface of the wood. For small holes, use wood-tone putty sticks. Mix several colors together if you cannot match the wood. Wipe the putty stick across the hole and smooth the surface with your finger. Let the putty dry for at least a week before finishing or refinishing the wood.

For larger holes, use wood filler or water putty. Wood filler is available in several colors, and water putty can be tinted with oil or water stain. Test the patch on an inconspicuous surface to ensure that the color is right. Wood filler and water putty patches are usually noticeable, and may look darker than the wood. Clean the crack or gouge with the tip of a craft knife and press the plastic into the hole firmly with the tip of a craft knife or the edge of a putty knife. Leave the filler slightly above the surface of the wood as it shrinks slightly as it dries. Let it set for at least two days and then smooth the patch with fine-grit sandpaper and buff the area with No. 0000 steel wool. Feather the edges if surrounding finish is involved so that the new patch blends in with it. Stain the patch if necessary and buff it lightly with No. 0000 steel wool. Apply finish to match the rest of the surface, feathering the edges. Let the finish dry and then lightly buff it with No. 0000 steel wool. Clean the area of any residue and wax and polish the surface.

Water putty dries harder than the wood being patched. It is best used on bare wood and can be toned with oil and water stains. Mix the powder with water to the consistency of putty and trowel it into the break with a putty knife, leaving the patch slightly high. Let the patch dry completely, and sand and steel-wool the area smooth and level with the surrounding surface. Finish the surface as above, or finish the entire piece of furniture.

For the most professional patching job, use shellac sticks to fill cracks and gouges. Shellac sticks are available in several wood-tone colors. Use a stick that matches the finish as closely as possible. Practice on scrap wood before working on a piece of furniture. They leave the least conspicuous patch and are very effective on finished wood that’s in good condition.

The article provides a guide on how to repair cracks, gouges, and burns in wooden furniture. To fill cracks and gouges, one must heat the shellac stick with an alcohol lamp or propane torch and carefully apply it to the affected area with a hot knife. For deeper holes, wood plastic or water putty can be applied first before filling it with shellac. If the damage is extensive, a piece of wood can be cut and trimmed to fit perfectly and bonded with carpenters’ glue. To repair burns, the charred wood must be scraped away with a craft knife, and the area can be buffed with a fine steel wool pad moistened with mineral spirits. Shallow burns will leave a slight indentation, while deep burn holes can be filled. After repair, the furniture can be refinished with shellac or wax and polish.

To repair damaged wood, start by carefully scraping away the charred wood with a craft knife. Use a curved blade for deep burns, and be sure not to scratch the burn area. Once all the char has been removed, sand the edges of the groove or trench to level it with the surrounding surface. Make sure to remove only the char from the burned area and avoid damaging the surrounding finish. For deep burns, level the groove with fine-grit sandpaper, but be careful not to sand too far out from the burn area. Fill any deep gouges with wood plastic or a shellac stick, then refinish the damaged area and buff the patch with No. 0000 steel wool. To repair veneer surfaces, slit large blisters and insert glue under the edges before flattening with heat. With veneer, undamaged layers can be reglued and chips and bare spots filled with matching veneer to match the grain. Small blisters in veneer can usually be flattened with heat.

If the surface has blisters, cover it with a sheet of wax paper and cardboard, then a clean cloth. Use a medium-hot iron to press the affected area, moving it back and forth slowly and evenly if there are several blisters. Be cautious not to touch the exposed surface with the iron. Continuously check the surface every few minutes, and stop pressing once the blisters have flattened. Leave the cardboard in place and weight the repair area for 24 hours. Wax and polish the surface afterward.

For large blisters, use a sharp craft knife or single-edge razor blade to carefully slit the blister open down the middle. Be careful not to cut into the base wood. Cover the surface and apply heat as before, scraping out deteriorated glue and inserting carpenters’ glue under the slit edges of the bubble with the tip of the knife. Wipe off any excess glue if necessary and shave off the overlapping edge of the slit bubble once one edge overlaps the other. Repeat heating and shaving until the blister is completely flattened. Weight the repair area solidly for 24 hours and wax and polish the whole surface.

To reglue lifted veneer, scrape out as much of the old glue as possible with a sharp craft knife or razor blade without lifting the veneer further. Use benzene or naphtha to clean the bonding surfaces and fine-grit sandpaper to sand them lightly before wiping them clean with a soft cloth moistened with mineral spirits. Apply contact cement to both bonding surfaces and let it set before smoothing the loose veneer carefully into place. If you’d prefer carpenters’ glue, spread it along the grain with a small brush and smooth the loose veneer into place, starting at the solidly attached veneer and working out toward the loose edge.

When using contact cement, it is important to ensure a perfect match of the veneer. If carpenters’ glue is used, press from the center outwards to eliminate any excess glue and wipe it off immediately. If multiple layers of veneer are loose, reattach each layer from the bottom up. The reglued veneer should be clamped or weighted, and any excess glue must be removed. Cover the surface with wax paper to protect it and set a buffer block of scrap wood over the newly glued area. Use another block or a soft cloth to protect the opposite edge or side of the surface. Clamp the glued and protected surface firmly with C-clamps or hand screws for one to two days. Afterward, remove the clamps and buffers, wax and polish the entire surface.

If the veneer is lifted and cracked but not broken completely through, it can be reglued. Broken veneer can also be reglued, but care must be taken not to damage the edges of the break. Do not trim ragged edges, as an irregular mend line will be less visible than a straight line. To mend veneer, cut a patch in an irregular shape, as any of these shapes will be less visible than a square. Before applying glue to the veneer, clean the bonding surfaces carefully, as mentioned previously. Fit the broken edges together carefully to ensure a perfect match. Then apply contact cement to both surfaces, or spread carpenters’ glue on the base wood. Set the broken veneer carefully into place, matching the edges exactly, and press firmly to knit the broken edges together. Clamp the mended area. Refinishing may be required when the mend is complete; if so, use a non-wash-away paint and varnish remover and treat the veneered surface gently.

Replacing veneer is simple, but finding a new piece to replace it may be difficult. If the furniture piece is not valuable, take the patch from a part that won’t show. The patch area must be along an edge, so that you can lift the veneer with a craft knife or a stiff-bladed putty knife. In most cases, patch veneer should not be taken from the same piece of furniture. If only a small piece is missing, fill the hole with veneer edging tape. If you have access to junk furniture, you may be able to salvage a similar veneer from another piece of furniture. For larger patches or if you can’t find a scrap piece of matching veneer, buy a sheet of matching veneer from a specialized wood supplier. National veneer suppliers can be found by searching the Internet.

To repair a chip or small patch in veneer, place a sheet of bond paper over the damaged area and use a soft, dull lead pencil to mark the edges of the damage onto the paper. Use this pattern as a template to cut a new veneer patch, matching the grain of the new veneer to the grain of the damaged area. Tape the pattern to the patching wood and cut the patch firmly and carefully with a sharp craft knife. To test the fit, tape the patching veneer over the damaged area, making sure it matches the grain and pattern of the damaged veneer, and cut the patch into an irregular shape. Remove the cut-out patch of damaged veneer with the tip of the craft knife, being careful not to damage the edges of the patch. Fit the patch into the hole and glue it into place with contact cement or carpenters’ glue, then let it dry for one to two days. Finally, sand the patch and surrounding veneer, and refinish the damaged area.

To repair furniture hardware, such as drawer pulls, handles, hinges, locks, protective corners, and decorative bands and escutcheons, start by assessing the damage. Loose hardware can often be repaired, while missing or damaged pieces should be replaced. Enlarged screw holes can be made smaller with wood toothpicks, glued in and trimmed flush with the surface. In this way, you can quickly replace or repair worn hardware on your wooden furniture, restoring it to its former glory.

Most furniture consists of common hardware designs, so it’s easy to find matching pieces. If the hardware is unusual, it’s better to replace all the hardware than to find a matching piece. However, if the furniture is an antique or the hardware is attractive, the old hardware should not be removed. In this case, missing parts should be replaced with similar hardware.

Furniture hardware can be found in hardware stores, home centers, and craft suppliers. Specialty hardware outlets and online vendors are also good sources. Let’s start by addressing a common hardware problem: loose drawer pulls and handles.

Drawer Pulls and Handles

To tighten a loose drawer pull, replace the screw with a longer one. If the screw is part of the pull, make the hole in the wood smaller. For metal pulls, use a solid-core solder. If the hole is too big, insert wood toothpicks or shavings with glue. For a more significant repair, glue a dowel into the hole and drill a new screw hole.

Hinges

If hinges don’t work properly, replace them. Try longer screws for loose hinges. For very large screw holes, use one of the methods mentioned above. Glue the hinges into place if they cannot be replaced.

Locks

For antique furniture or unusual locks, have them repaired professionally. For other pieces, remove the lock and take it to a locksmith to order a matching or similar replacement.

Loose Metal Bands and Escutcheons

If a band or escutcheon is loose, use adhesive caulking compound to secure it. If that doesn’t work, use tiny metal screws of the same material as the hardware. Match the metals to prevent corrosion. Drill pilot holes for the screws and use several to form a pattern.

Hardware Coverup

If you can’t fix old hardware holes or want to change the appearance of a piece, you can use new wood or metal escutcheon plates to cover the surface. Escutcheons are particularly used under drawer pulls or handles, and many handles have escutcheon-type backers. Attach the escutcheons with adhesive or screws, matching the metals. If you’re using escutcheon-type handles, no other treatment is necessary. However, if you’re using an escutcheon under other hardware, drill new mounting holes as required. Keep the design simple and try to match the style of the piece.

So whether it’s the hardware, veneer, or a burn, there’s probably a solution. The end result is a furniture surface that can withstand the everyday wear and tear it inevitably receives.

©Publications International, Ltd.

Originally Published: May 10, 2006

FAQs on Repairing Wood Furniture

Can vinegar and olive oil fix scratches on wood furniture?

Yes, olive oil and vinegar have the necessary ingredients to repair scratches on wood furniture. Mix three parts of oil with one part vinegar. Pour a little on the scratch and let it soak for at least 24 hours before wiping it off. Repeat until the scratch disappears.

How much does sofa repair cost?

The cost of repairing a sofa depends on the extent of the damage. On average, furniture repair costs around $100 to $300, or about $150. However, it can be much more if the couch needs reupholstering.

How can you repair dents in wood?

Put a few drops of water in the dent, then cover the area with a damp cloth. Use an iron at maximum setting and apply it onto the damp cloth. This should fix the dent by forcing the wood fibers back into their original position.

How do you fix tarnished wood?

A common home remedy is to mix canola oil (or olive oil) with vinegar. Use three parts oil to one part vinegar, apply the mixture to a soft cloth, and rub the furniture. This will restore your wood pieces to their original condition. The combination of oil and vinegar can also repair scuffs easily.

FAQ

1. What are some common problems that can occur with wooden furniture surfaces?

Common problems include scratches, dents, stains, discoloration, and water damage.

2. How can I repair scratches on wooden furniture surfaces?

Minor scratches can be repaired by rubbing a walnut or pecan over them. Deeper scratches may require filling with wood filler and sanding.

3. What can I do about dents in wooden furniture surfaces?

Dents can be steamed with an iron and damp cloth, or filled with wood filler and sanded. In some cases, the dent may need to be left as-is for a rustic look.

4. How can I remove stains from wooden furniture surfaces?

Stains can be removed with a mixture of baking soda and water, or with a solution of vinegar and olive oil. For stubborn stains, sanding may be necessary.

5. What should I do about discoloration on wooden furniture surfaces?

Discoloration can often be sanded out, or the affected area can be bleached. It is important to use caution when bleaching wood, as it can cause damage.

6. How can I repair water damage on wooden furniture surfaces?

Water damage can be repaired by sanding the affected area and applying a wood stain or varnish. In severe cases, the damaged area may need to be replaced.

7. Can I use household products to repair wooden furniture surfaces?

Yes, many household products such as baking soda, vinegar, and olive oil can be used to repair wooden furniture surfaces. However, it is important to test the product on a small, inconspicuous area first.

8. How often should I maintain and repair my wooden furniture surfaces?

It is recommended to maintain and repair wooden furniture surfaces as needed, depending on use and wear. Regular cleaning and polishing can help prevent damage and maintain the surface.

9. What tools and supplies do I need to repair wooden furniture surfaces?

Tools and supplies may include sandpaper, wood filler, stains, varnish, and a variety of household products such as baking soda and vinegar. It is important to have the appropriate tools and supplies for the specific repair needed.

10. Can I repair wooden furniture surfaces myself, or should I hire a professional?

Minor repairs can often be done by the homeowner, while more complex repairs may require the expertise of a professional. It is important to assess the extent of the damage and determine if it is within your skill level.

11. How can I prevent damage to my wooden furniture surfaces?

Preventative measures include using coasters and tablecloths, avoiding exposure to direct sunlight or extreme temperatures, and using furniture polish and wax to protect the surface. Regular cleaning and maintenance can also help prevent damage.