Guide to Painting Your House

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Home Improvement
Painting the entire exterior of your house is a massive undertaking, but it may not be necessary. Regular maintenance and quick repairs can enhance your home’s appearance and extend the life of a full paint job by several years. Whether you are planning to paint a porch, the weathered side of your house, or an outbuilding, the general process is the same as painting your entire home.

The first step is to clean and prepare the surface, choose the right type of paint, and apply it. The ideal time to paint is during late spring or early fall, on a dry day that is not too sunny. Avoid painting in temperatures below 40 degrees F or direct hot sun, as this can damage the paint job. Before you begin painting, conduct a thorough inspection of your house and take corrective measures to address the root causes of paint failure.

Exterior Paint Troubleshooting

If you encounter issues with exterior paint, such as blistering or chalking, refer to this helpful guide on how to troubleshoot them.

In this article, we will cover the basics of exterior painting, starting with how to address various paint problems. One common issue is peeling, which can occur when painting over wet wood or due to moisture within the house. To fix it, use latex primer and paint, which allow some moisture to pass through. Another cause is a dirty or glossy surface, which requires scraping off loose paint flakes, sanding the surface, and priming bare spots before painting. Alligatoring is another problem where paint shrinks into islands, exposing the previous surface. To fix it, scrape off old paint, sand, prime, and repaint the surface. Blistering occurs when paint rises and forms blisters due to moisture or improper painting. To fix it, scrape off the blisters and check for dry wood or solvent blisters caused by painting with oil or alkyd-base coating in hot weather. Wrinkling occurs when new paint sags into droops due to thick paint or cold weather. To fix it, sand the wrinkled area smooth, remove the paint if necessary, and apply the proper consistency of paint. Chalking is paint with a dusty surface caused by painting over a too-porous surface or an inferior paint. To fix it, wash the surface thoroughly and paint over it with non-chalking paint. Mildew is a moldy growth that appears in damp and shaded areas. To fix it, use a fungicide before repainting. Finally, using too much paint on a brush can create a wavy surface, which requires sanding and repainting to smooth out the surface.

It is important to purchase high-quality paint as prolonged tackiness is a sign of inferior paint. If you use poor-quality paint too thickly or in high humidity, it will remain tacky for a long time. However, good paint dries quickly. If you suspect that you have inferior paint, try it out on a hidden part of the house first. In the next section, we will discuss the prep work you need to do before starting your outdoor painting project.

If you’re fortunate, all your house may need before repainting is a good, thorough cleaning. Use a hose to wash it down, and scrub stubborn dirt with warm, soapy water and a scrub brush. Alternatively, use a power washer. If you’re not so lucky, then be prepared for a time-consuming and dirty job. A good paint job not only looks better, but it also lasts for five to eight years on average.

Begin by thoroughly inspecting the exterior of the house or outbuilding, including under the eaves, around windows and doors, and along the foundation, as well as the exterior walls. Look for split shingles and siding, popped nails, peeling or blistering paint, mildew, and rust stains. Once you’ve identified the problem areas, get to work making repairs.

To remove small areas of defective paint, use a wire brush and a wide-blade putty knife. Scrub under the laps of clapboard siding and on downspouts and gutters. For faster work on metal surfaces, use a wire brush attachment on an electric drill to remove rust and paint with less effort. For more extensive paint removal, invest in a sharp pull scraper with a replaceable blade that can strip old paint down to bare wood with a single scrape. Hold the scraper at a perpendicular angle to the wood, apply moderate to firm pressure, and drag it along the surface. Keep the blade flat against the wood to avoid gouging.

Use an electric orbital sander to remove old paint and feather rough edges. Move it up and down or back and forth for best results.

To smooth scraped spots, wrap sandpaper around a wood block. For larger areas, use an electric orbital sander. Don’t use an electric disc or belt sander as they can leave swirls or dips in the wood. To remove heavy paint deposits, use an electric paint remover with a heating element and built-in scraper. Liquid paint removers should be a last resort. Apply an appropriate primer to distressed areas after removing loose paint. Rust stains, gutter leaks, loose caulking, split shingles, cracks in siding, and mildew should be addressed before painting. Remove and paint accessories separately for easier painting.

The preparations for painting the exterior of a house can typically be completed in a day or a weekend, while painting a porch or outbuilding may only take an hour. If using latex paint, painting can begin the following day, but if using solvent-base paint, it’s important to wait several days for all washed surfaces to dry completely.

The first step in preparing to paint is washing the exterior of the house to remove dirt and debris and to identify any surface flaws that need to be addressed. Depending on the size of the house and the level of dirt, a garden hose with a carwash brush attachment or a scrub brush and warm water with a strong household detergent can be used. It’s important to work from the top down and rinse all areas where scrubbing occurred.


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To remove caked-on dirt, use a scrub brush or a sponge and a pail of warm water with a good, strong household detergent in it. Work from the top down and rinse all areas where you scrubbed.

If you have a big house or want to clean a smaller one quickly, consider renting a high-pressure spray cleaner. This device connects to your home’s water supply and produces a powerful jet of water at around 600 pounds per square inch. It comes with a handheld wand that has a trigger-activated nozzle. The pressure is strong enough to remove dirt, mildew, stains, and even peeling paint. However, if you hold it too close to a surface, it can damage it or even drill a hole in the siding. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and wear protective gear.

You can use the spray cleaner while on a ladder, but it’s best to practice on the ground first. The force of the water could knock you off balance. Some machines come with separate containers for cleaning or anti-mildew solutions, but you may not need them if the pressure is strong enough. If you do use a solution, rinse the surface with clean water afterward.

If you notice nails popping out of the siding or rusting nail heads leaving streaks on the walls, use sandpaper or steel wool to clean them. For clapboard siding, recess the nail head about ⅛ inch below the surface with a nail set and apply a coat of rust-inhibiting primer. Fill the hole with spackle or putty, let it dry, and then apply primer. For flathead nails, sand the heads until they’re shiny and apply primer.


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To keep trees out of the way while you’re painting, tie a rope around
the trunk, and pull the tree out away from the house. Stake the
other end of the rope out in the yard.

Preparing for Painting Shrubs

If you have trees, bushes, or ornamental shrubs near your house, they can obstruct your painting. It’s advisable to trim any branches that hang over the house or brush up against walls. For evergreen trees and tall bushes close to the house, wrap them with canvas drop cloths. Tie a rope around the trunk at least halfway up and pull the top of the tree away from the house. Then, tie the other end of the rope to a stake farther out in the yard. Cover smaller shrubs, flower beds, sidewalks, and driveways with drop cloths to protect them from paint drips and spills.

Determining the Amount of Paint You’ll Need

The amount of paint you need to buy depends on several factors such as the size of the house, the condition of the surfaces, the type of coating you choose, and the method of application.

Exterior walls made of narrow lap siding, shingles or shakes, masonry, or stucco require 10 to 50 percent more paint than smooth, flat walls. Airless sprayers, which apply two coats of paint at a time, may require twice as much paint as brushes, rollers, or pads for the same surface dimensions. If you run out of paint, you can purchase more standard, premixed paint. Many stores will give you credit or refunds for unopened gallons if you buy too much. However, it may be difficult to get a precise match if you run short of custom-colored paints. It’s crucial to calculate your needs carefully and buy an extra gallon for insurance.

Measuring the Amount of Paint Needed

To determine how much paint you’ll need for your house, measure the house’s perimeter and multiply it by the height, excluding gable ends. Use a steel tape measure or reel out a ball of twine around the house. Then mark and measure the twine. If you’ll use a different paint for the trim, subtract 21 square feet for every door and 15 square feet for each standard window. Finally, divide the figure by the square-foot coverage specified on the paint can to determine the number of gallons you’ll need for one coat.

If your house has gables, add 2 feet to the height when making your calculations. For more accuracy, measure the width of the gable wall and multiply it by its height. Divide the final figure by 2 to determine the gable’s square-foot dimensions.

For trim paint, the rule of thumb is 1 gallon for every 6 gallons of wall paint. To be more precise, calculate the areas of doors, windows, and shutters. For gutters, one linear foot equals one square foot. Therefore, for 50 feet of gutter, buy enough paint to cover 50 square feet.

Now you’re ready to start painting. Keep reading to learn how to paint siding and trim.

How to Paint Siding and Trim

A Guide to
Exterior Paint
When painting or your home, it’s important to select the right coating for your situation. Click here more information about exterior coatings for your home.

After completing the necessary surface preparations, you are now ready to apply a fresh coat of paint by brushing, rolling, or spraying it onto the surface. It is important to mix all the paint together in one or two large containers to ensure consistent color, as paint colors may vary slightly from batch to batch. Any leftover paint should be returned to the original paint cans and sealed.

To ensure optimal results, plan your painting day by following the sun and working in shaded areas once the morning moisture has evaporated. Avoid painting an exterior wall when the sun is setting, as this may cause lap marks in the middle of the course. If you need to stop painting, try to finish an entire course of siding across the house.

When painting high areas, work in horizontal sections across the top of the exterior wall. Never lean away from an extension ladder or reach beyond an arm’s length to either side. Paint one high section, move the ladder, and repeat the process until the entire exterior wall is painted. Ensure that the ladder is on firm footing, about one-quarter of its length from the foundation of the house, and that it does not tilt to the left or right. Always check both extension hooks to ensure they are locked firmly onto the supporting rungs. The two sections of the ladder should overlap at least three rungs. When moving the ladder, be cautious of power lines. For added convenience, use an S-shaped bucket hook to hang your paint bucket on a rung while painting with one hand and holding onto the ladder with the other hand.

If your house has dormers, painting them from the roof may be necessary. In this case, ensure that the ladder reaches at least 3 feet above the edge of the roof to allow you to step onto it without standing on the top rungs of the ladder.

To ensure a proper paint job on clapboard or shingles, it is important to pay special attention to the areas surrounding door and window casings. At the top of each casing, there is a drip cap or metal flashing that tucks up under the siding, so it is crucial to paint a tight seal between the metal and wood. For the sides of the casings, use a brush to get into the joints, then smooth out the paint to seal them. A corner roller may be preferred for casings and the undersides of siding laps. Before moving the ladder, check for drips, runs, thin areas, and missed spots.

Painting exterior trim is a slow process that takes up a considerable amount of time, but it is a crucial step in making progress and completing the job. Diligence and patience in dealing with these details pays off, as it will keep your house looking fresh and protect it from the elements for an extended period. It is recommended to work from the top down when painting exterior trim, starting with the gables, dormers, eaves, and gutters, then moving on to the second-story windows, porches, stairs, and foundations. If you do not want to mask around window panes, use a paint shield as you work. Make sure caulking is dry before painting over it, and use enough paint to form a tight seal between the siding and the trim to keep out moisture, wind, and insects. Pay close attention to the windowsills, as they bear the brunt of rain, snow, and accumulated dirt. If the windowsills look particularly weather-beaten, give them two or even three coats of paint, including the underside edges. Screens and storm windows should be removed and painted separately, and if the screens have holes, this is a good time to mend them or replace the screening. If the screening is sound but needs painting, coat it first using a pad applicator, then paint the frame. Doors are easier to paint if you remove the knobs, latch plates, and door knocker. If possible, also remove the door from its frame, lay it flat, and paint one side at a time, starting with recessed panels, then raised areas. Sand the bottom and top edges, then apply a thin coat of paint to keep out moisture and prevent rot. While the door is open or off its hinges, paint the jambs and the frame, and give the wooden threshold a coat of urethane varnish. Do not paint the hinges.

To maintain gutters and downspouts made of galvanized metal, scrape off loose paint with a wire brush and then prime and paint them again. When painting downspouts, apply the paint in the direction of the flutes to avoid drips and sags. For flat downspouts that are attached closely to the house, you may need to take them down to paint them. Additionally, consider using an asphalt-based paint to waterproof gutters and seal tiny holes. On the other hand, when painting ornamental metal work and porch railings, use a lamb’s wool applicator instead of a trim brush. This cleanable and reusable mitten applicator allows you to smear on paint while grasping a railing support. Finally, while painting your house can be a big job, it’s not difficult. Take your time and do it well, and it will last for many years.

FAQ

1. What are the first steps in painting a house?

The first steps in painting a house are to prepare the surface and gather the necessary tools and materials. This involves cleaning the surface to be painted, repairing any damages, and covering any areas that should not be painted, such as windows and trim. The necessary tools and materials include paint brushes, rollers, paint trays, drop cloths, sandpaper, and of course, paint. It is also important to choose the right type of paint for the surface being painted, such as exterior paint for the outside of the house.

2. How do I choose the right paint color for my house?

Choosing the right paint color for your house can be a daunting task. It is important to consider the style and architecture of the house, as well as the surrounding landscape and neighborhood. It can be helpful to look at other houses in the area for inspiration. Many paint companies offer online tools that allow you to visualize different colors on your house, which can be a helpful starting point. It is also important to consider the type of paint finish, such as matte or glossy, and how it will complement the overall look of your home.

3. What is the best time of year to paint a house?

The best time of year to paint a house is when the weather is dry and mild, typically in the spring and fall. Extreme temperatures, such as very hot or very cold, can affect the quality and application of the paint. It is also important to avoid painting during periods of high humidity, as this can cause the paint to dry too slowly and result in a poor finish. Additionally, it is important to consider the amount of daylight available, as painting in low light can make it difficult to see the finished product.

4. How do I properly prepare the surface for painting?

Properly preparing the surface for painting is essential for achieving a high-quality finish. This involves cleaning the surface to remove any dirt, dust, or debris, as well as repairing any cracks or holes. If the surface is already painted, it may be necessary to sand it to create a smooth surface for the new paint. It is also important to cover any areas that should not be painted, such as windows and trim, to avoid getting paint on them. Finally, it is important to allow the surface to dry completely before painting.

5. How can I ensure a smooth and even application of paint?

To ensure a smooth and even application of paint, it is important to use the right tools and techniques. This includes using high-quality brushes and rollers, as well as using the right type of paint for the surface being painted. It is also important to apply the paint in thin, even coats, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. This can help to avoid drips and clumps of paint. Finally, it is important to take the time to properly prepare the surface before painting, as this can help to ensure a smooth and even application of paint.

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