HowStuffWorks Provides Solutions to Your Gardening Queries

Lawn & Garden

The soil’s pH level should be approximately 6.5 for optimal growth.

This article guides you through some of the most commonly asked gardening questions. Whether you’re planning to start a garden or want to grow a lush green lawn, it’s essential to ensure that your investment pays off.

To create a beautiful landscape, it’s important to have basic knowledge of agriculture. You don’t need to be an expert, but understanding the elements that guarantee success is crucial. From initial planning to maintenance, we have provided simple and straightforward answers to all your tough questions.

Q: How can I increase the soil pH from 5.0 to 6.5?

A: Apply granular lime in the form of ground limestone at a rate of 4 to 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Repeat the process after six months. The application can be done any time of the year as lime (calcium) will not harm the plants. Gradual application is more effective than a single heavy treatment, and it takes around a year to reach the desired pH level. Get the soil tested the following year for further recommendations.

Q: Which are the most common lawn weeds that I need to worry about?

A: The weeds that you’ll face will vary from region to region, but the problems will be similar. Prevention is the best weed control method. A thick and healthy lawn with no bare soil, where weeds can grow, is the key. Broad-leaved weeds such as dandelions and plantains, and annual grassy weeds such as crabgrass, can be controlled with herbicides. Annual weeds die during winter, scattering seeds for the next year’s growth. Use a pre-emergent herbicide in spring to prevent the seeds from sprouting.

Q: How can I remove moss to rejuvenate my lawn?

A: Moss indicates poor soil quality and lack of sunlight. Soil that supports moss tends to be acidic, compacted, poorly aerated, and low in fertility. Remove the moss and prepare the soil again. Raise the pH level by adding lime and a complete fertilizer. Cultivate the soil deeply, add organic matter and sand if required to improve drainage and aeration. Reseed or install shade-resistant turf species sod.

Q: When is the best time to cut back ornamental grasses?

A: Ornamental grasses are beautiful in a winter garden, and their seed stalks and foliage can be enjoyed throughout the season. Just before the grasses start growing again, cut the dead part down. Cool-season grasses start growing in late winter, while warm-season grasses begin when the soil is significantly warm. Cut back the grasses before the plants break dormancy to prevent damage to the emerging leaves.

Q: How can I draw my property to scale?

A: Start by making a non-scaled sketch of the area and note the dimensions of the existing features. Next, use graph paper to sketch the plan to scale. Use each square to represent a specific distance, such as one square equals one foot. Photocopy your sketch to experiment with several different ideas without repeating the process. Keep in mind that plants grow, so sketch your layout as it would look ten years from now. Using scale during the planning process provides a better perspective on your garden design.

Q: What should I consider when searching for a building lot to simplify my landscape planning?

A: Start by thinking about your outdoor living space. Do you require a large, level area for kids to play? In that case, avoid buying a hilly plot. If you want to grow a vegetable garden or require an area with full sun, a wooded lot may not be suitable. Make a list of your household’s requirements for the land to determine if it meets your needs.

Q: Our trees will take years to grow big enough to provide shade for our deck. What can we do in the meantime?

A: A simple trellis or arbor above the deck can support fast-growing vines, annuals like morning glories, or perennials like clematis. An overhead structure defines a comfortable living space while also shielding you from the sun. Ensure that the structure is high enough for comfort while considering that cascading vines will require space.

Q: How can I make my backyard more private?

A: Unless you need to keep people out or children and pets in, you probably don’t need to fence the entire yard. Strategically placed fence panels or sections in combination with small trees and large shrubs, for example, can create a more aesthetically pleasing environment. Fencing can make the yard appear smaller. Take advantage of neighboring trees and gardens to give your yard a more expansive feel.

Q: Is it necessary to collect grass clippings when mowing the lawn?

A: Remove excessive amounts of clippings from tall grass since they can suffocate and kill the grass underneath. Some types of turfgrass produce a heavy thatch (matted, dead grass) that can prevent water, fertilizer, and air from penetrating the soil, thereby weakening the lawn’s health. Regular mowing usually produces only light clippings that break down quickly, adding valuable nutrients back into the lawn.

Q: When is the best time to start a new lawn from seed?

A: It depends on the type of grass you want to grow. If you’re sowing seed, you’ll most likely be using a cool-season grass. It’s best to prepare the soil at the end of summer and sow the seed about six weeks before the first average frost in your area. The seed will sprout during the remaining warm weeks and develop deep roots throughout fall and into winter. The lawn will be well established by mid-spring.

Q: Does it matter if I use fresh barnyard wastes and compost or old, seasoned organic matter?

A: Microorganisms that break down the plant matter consume much of the available nutrients (especially nitrogen) in the soil. Material decomposes faster in a compost pile than if the matter is directly incorporated into the soil since the microorganisms also require air. If fresh organic matter is used in or on top of the garden, you’ll need to apply additional nitrogen to protect plants from nutrient deficiency.

On the following page, learn more about gardening. From selecting a garden location to purchasing plants, we have answers that will assist you in creating a beautiful garden.

Want to learn more about cultivating a flower garden, houseplants, or a vegetable garden? Explore:

• Gardening
• Gardening Tips

Gardening FAQs

Investing in good pruning shears can help you maintain proper plant growth for years to come.

These frequently asked gardening questions and corresponding answers will help you plant and maintain your garden with ease. Familiarize yourself with gardening terminology, and learn how to choose plants that suit your gardening style and environment. For novice gardeners, this is an excellent starting point for building your dream landscape.

Q: What type of pruning shears are best?

A: There are two primary types of pruning shears: anvil and scissors. A high-quality pair of shears can last for many years. Scissors have an advantage over anvils because they won’t crush the stem while cutting. Good shears can be disassembled for sharpening, and replacement parts are easily available for top-quality models. Long-handled lopping shears are useful for pruning shrubs and cutting larger plants than hand pruners can handle.

Q: I understand the benefits of using compost in the garden, but I don’t think I’ll ever be disciplined enough to create and maintain a compost pile. What else can I use?

A: Many cities have piles of leaf mold from autumn collection that are free to take. Grab a shovel and some plastic bags and head to the lot. You can also purchase composted manure from a stable or barnyard, or dehydrated manure or compost that can be incorporated into the soil like fresh compost.

Q: My neighbors can grow beautiful camellias, but I’ve given up after many failed attempts. Their soil seems the same as mine.

A: The successful camellia is likely growing in a microclimate that may not exist on your property. A protected microclimate is an ideal place to experiment with marginally hardy plant species because it’s shielded from extreme temperature changes and winter winds. Visit your neighbors’ site and try to find out what makes their location unique – you may have a site that is equally suitable.

Q: I’m searching for a specific cultivar that I can only find through mail order. Is it safe to buy plants from a different temperature zone?

A: If you know the type of plant can grow in your climate, you shouldn’t have any issues – as long as it’s a spring purchase. If the nursery’s zone is warmer than yours, request a safe ship date for your area. The newly planted shrub will have the entire summer to acclimatize to your seasons and should survive the next winter.

Q: There are so many varieties of the plant I’m looking for. How do I choose the best one?

A: Sometimes the color of the bloom is the only difference between cultivars, making personal preference the deciding factor. Other times, the differences are more pronounced, such as resistance to a disease that is prevalent in your area. And sometimes the difference may be in the plant’s ultimate height, width, or form. Read nursery catalogs and consult garden center salespeople to determine which varieties interest you and are best suited to your conditions.

Q: What is the meaning of “well-drained soil”?

A: The term “well-drained soil” refers to soil that has enough water for plants to absorb but not too much to cause root damage. If there is excess water in the soil for a long time, it can affect the air balance, which is essential for healthy root growth. Loam, which is a blend of sand, clay, and organic matter, is usually well-drained. On the other hand, heavily compacted clay soils are typically poorly drained.

Q: As a weekend gardener, is it necessary to double-dig my new perennial bed?

A: Double-digging is a recommended technique for creating a high-quality soil environment for perennials with deep roots. Since perennials are long-term plants, it is worth investing the time and effort to create an ideal growing environment. If the soil 12 inches below the surface is too dense for root development, the plants may wither away a few years after planting.

Q: How does proper site and plant selection make insect management easier?

A: Certain landscape plants are pest-resistant or virtually pest-free, making insect management easier. It is important to research the pests that are prevalent in the area and avoid planting species that attract them. Plants that do not grow in their optimal environment may not support beneficial insect predators that can prevent pests from proliferating.

Q: Are the inexpensive collections of perennials, trees, and bulbs worth purchasing?

A: Beware of bargains that seem too good to be true, as they often are. Trees, shrubs, and perennials may be no more than rooted cuttings, and some may not thrive in the local climate. Bulb collections may consist of small or outdated cultivars that take years to bloom. It is better to invest in high-quality plants that are guaranteed to thrive.

Q: How do I choose the right shade tree for my property?

A: When selecting a shade tree, it is important to consider the height, width, and density of shade required for the site. The rate of growth, environmental conditions, and amount of pest control needed are also factors to be considered. Researching catalogs or consulting with local gardeners can help compile a list of potential trees, which can be viewed at a local garden center or botanical garden.

For more information on growing flower gardens, houseplants, or vegetable gardens, check out:

• Gardening
• Gardening Tips

Frequently Asked Gardening Questions

Common questions about gardening often relate to planting techniques, schedules, and locations. This guide provides answers to frequently asked questions to help cultivate a beautiful garden.

Q: How can I protect my patio containers of trees and shrubs with mixed annuals during winter?

A: Before winter, remove the annual plants from the containers. Then, relocate the containers to a spot that is sheltered from the harsh winter wind and direct sunlight. To protect the soil, use mulch, such as compost, bark, or leaves. Make sure to water the containers sufficiently during dry spells. As an alternative to the annuals, plant some spring flowering bulbs for some early season color.

Q: Can you recommend colorful shade-tolerant plants for my garden?

A: In addition to perennials with bloom, texture, and contrast, there are a few annuals that thrive in the shade with proper moisture and nutrients. The best shade-tolerant annuals that add color all season are coleus (known for their colorful foliage), wax begonias, and impatiens, which come in a variety of colors. Depending on the depth of shade, other annuals like ageratum, sapphire flower, caladiums, and sweet alyssum may also be successful.

Q: When is it safe to plant annuals in the spring?

A: Check with your local Extension Office to find out the date of the last average frost in your area. Planting should be safe after that date. However, keep in mind that this date is an average, and some years may experience a later frost. Before planting the annuals in your garden, condition them to the sunlight, wind, and night temperature for several days. Be prepared to protect them from a late-season freeze.

Q: How do I maintain the fullness and freshness of my hanging baskets of annuals?

A: Follow three basic principles when growing flowering baskets — water, fertilize, and groom. Because the soil mass in a basket is small, it heats up and dries out quickly, so you may need to water daily. Fertilize the plant with a liquid balanced fertilizer every two weeks. And, groom your plant often. Deadhead and pinch back leggy growth to promote heavier flowering and branching.

Q: What should I do in the fall to prepare my annual bed for next spring?

A: Cut the plants to the ground after they have died from frost, removing all debris from the area to prevent pests from overwintering. Test your soil and add lime if necessary, but wait until spring to fertilize. Cultivate organic matter into the soil, and apply fresh mulch to prevent winter weeds from germinating. Your bed will be ready for spring planting.

Q: Can I save any of my annuals for next year’s planting?

A: Some types of annuals can be saved as houseplants during the winter. Coleus, geraniums, impatiens, and wax begonias do well as houseplants. Dig up the plant with as much of its root system intact as possible and pot it using quality potting soil. Cut the plant back by 40 to 50 percent, leaving some foliage on the plant. Provide the plants with as much light as possible in the house, and keep the soil slightly moist.

Q: What are the best annuals for cutting and arranging, and where should they be planted?

A: To find the best annuals for arrangements, look for tall-stemmed varieties in the colors you prefer. Many annuals come in different varieties, some short and bushy for edging and others tall for cutting. It’s a good idea to plant them at the back of the border or in a separate bed for cutting. You can even plant a row in a sunny vegetable garden to grow cut flowers.

Q: How can I stake my floppy annuals without being too intrusive in the garden?

A: Use natural materials like brush and twigs that blend in with the garden or purchase green bamboo stakes from garden centers. It’s best to stake the plants during planting time to avoid damaging the roots. Tie the plants loosely with string, plastic wrap, or tall ornamental grass leaves, but avoid wire ties as they can cut the flower stems.

Q: Which annuals require the least maintenance?

A: Look for self-cleaning annuals like ageratum, alyssum, begonias, dusty miller, impatiens, and vinca that don’t require deadheading or extra irrigation. Some annuals drop their flowers naturally, while others use energy for seed production and need grooming for continuous bloom. Ageratum, marigolds, ornamental peppers, portulaca, and vinca are also drought-tolerant species. Prepare the soil with organic matter to increase the intervals between waterings and save maintenance time.

Q: How can I get taller annuals for the back of the border?

A: Mail-order seed catalogs offer a wider variety of tall annuals. Some companies sell starter plants and seeds, but you can also start small-seeded varieties on a sunny windowsill before planting outside. Many varieties can be directly sown in the garden.

Q: What can I do to encourage children to enjoy gardening?

A: Help children succeed in gardening by giving them a space of their own and growing plants from large seeds or transplants for immediate color. Quick-growing vines like morning glories and gourds or colorful zinnias and balsam are great options. Encourage them to collect and save seeds for next season. Most importantly, enjoy the garden together!

On the next page, learn how to maintain your plants so you can enjoy them year after year.

Interested in learning more about cultivating a flower garden, houseplants, or vegetable garden? Take a look at:

• Gardening
• Gardening Tips

Gardening Queries Solved

Crocus bulbs will blossom once their root system has been established.

Our guide to gardening queries has got you covered. Whether you have inquiries about perennials, bulbs, or fertilizers, we have all the answers. Discover the distinction between low-cost and expensive plants, how to safeguard your plants, and how to get your plants to flourish. Armed with this knowledge, you can cultivate a stunning garden.

Q: It’s the end of winter and I haven’t planted the spring-flowering bulbs I bought last fall. Can I still plant them?

A: Spring-flowering bulbs require winter to develop a new root system and complete their growth cycle to bloom. If the bulbs are not soft, an indication of a dying bulb, you should still be able to grow them, but do not expect them to flower in the first year. Care for the plants with regular watering and fertilizer. If the plant can regain its strength, it will likely bloom the following season.

Q: It’s mid-winter and my bulbs and some perennials are starting to emerge. Should I cover the plants to protect them from the harsh weather?

A: Bulbs and perennials usually start to grow at the right time and are prepared for any additional cold weather. Remove some mulch from around the plant to cool the soil and slow down growth. Allow the plants to grow naturally, and they will bloom when the time is right.

Q: When is the best time to dig and divide bulbs?

A: The foliage of most spring bulbs naturally turns yellow about six weeks after flowering. This is a good sign that the plant has produced and stored enough energy to survive and bloom next season. When the leaves begin to yellow, dig deeply to remove the entire clump. Gently remove the soil from the bulbs and break individual bulbs from the clump. Replant the bulbs immediately.

Q: After several years in a sunny, well-drained soil, my peony has not flowered. What could be the problem?

A: Your plant is likely planted too deep. In early fall, dig up the plant and check the roots for any unusual damage. Adjust the pH to between 5.5 and 6.5. Replant so that the crown, where the buds form, is one to two inches below the soil surface. Water deeply and apply mulch to allow the plant to reestablish itself.

Q: When is the best time to divide clumping perennials like coralbells and Japanese iris?

A: Most perennials divide easily in the fall, if done early enough for the roots to establish themselves several weeks before the ground freezes. Late-blooming types can be divided in the spring, provided there is sufficient rain or watering to encourage rapid growth of the roots. Expect a decrease in flowering until the plants become reestablished in their new locations.

Q: What distinguishes inexpensive perennials grown from seeds from more expensive ones grown from divisions?

A: Some perennials can be easily grown from seeds and produce flowers within a year or two. However, named cultivars, which have specific desirable characteristics, can only be reproduced through cuttings or by division from the parent plant that displays unique features. Since it takes longer to produce cultivars by division than by seed, their production is usually more expensive.

Q: How can I prevent spreading perennials like Monarda from invading my more delicate plants?

A: To control invasive perennials, create a barrier around the parent plant. The barrier must be deep enough in the ground to prevent the rhizomes from growing underneath it. Use a large black nursery container with its bottom cut out and sink it in the ground to about 1/2 inch higher than the soil level. Plant in the center of the pot and cover the rim with a light layer of mulch.

Q: Most of my perennials have finished blooming, and I want to tidy up the garden. How far down can I cut the plants?

A: It is essential to leave the crown of the plant undisturbed so that the basal leaves can continue to grow and produce food for the plant’s survival during winter. Cut flowering stalks to about four inches. The remaining stubble will indicate the plants’ locations so that you won’t disturb them during bulb planting or winter gardening.

Q: What is the most effective method of fertilizing a perennial border made up of different types of plants?

A: If the soil has been correctly prepared with organic matter, and the bed is mulched, an annual application of complete fertilizer is sufficient. In early spring, when the plants begin to grow actively, sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil. Apply by hand to prevent the fertilizer from settling on the leaves. Calculate the amount to apply based on the instructions on the bag.

Q: Why do some of my “full sun” perennials burn up in my southern garden?

A: Garden books categorize the light requirements of perennials based on the average light intensity of North American gardens. Plants that require full sun in New England may need protection from the hot afternoon sun in Georgia. Use references to plan your garden, but the best advice comes from experimenting with different species under various light conditions. Additionally, using mulch will help keep soil temperatures lower.

On the following page, you can learn everything about planting and caring for trees, including your old Christmas tree.

Interested in learning more about growing flower gardens, houseplants, or vegetable gardens? Check out:

• Gardening
• Gardening Tips

Tree Questions

Only female holly produces berries.

If you have questions about trees, we have the answers. Trees require different care and maintenance than plants, and they also display different symptoms of illness. If you want to learn how to plant, prune, and protect your trees, keep reading.

Q: My wisteria grows quickly but never blooms. How can I fix this?

A: It’s possible that you’re pruning off the flower buds for next year. Try pruning the longest side branches to encourage short side shoots for flower buds. Avoid fertilizing the wisteria to prevent excessive growth. Wisteria thrives with plenty of sunlight exposure. Root pruning may shock the plant into flowering – cut a six-inch deep circle around the base of the plant in June using a spade.

Q: When is the best time to prune my trees?

A: Prune shade and ornamental trees in late winter when the sap is rising to thin out branches and prolong the life of the tree. The sap “bleeding” helps prevent disease organisms from entering the wound and the tree will heal quickly at this time. Any limbs that require removal due to storm or disease damage can be pruned at any time of year.

Q: Can topping trees allow more light in my yard?

A: Topping a tree can negatively impact its long-term health and aesthetic appearance. The open wounds from topping do not heal completely, making it easier for disease-causing organisms to enter. Rapid, dense growth of suckers will grow to the original height of the tree, ultimately defeating the purpose of topping. The new growth is not as structurally sound as normal branching, making it more susceptible to storm damage.

Q: Why are some of my hydrangeas blue and others pink?

A: The color of your hydrangeas is determined by the availability of aluminum in the soil, which is influenced by the soil’s pH. A pH of 7.0 or above will result in pink flowers, 4.5 to 5.5 will produce blue flowers, and in-between pH levels will yield purplish flowers. Use a sulfur-based product to lower the pH for blue flowers and lime to raise the pH for pink blossoms.

Q: Is it possible to plant a live Christmas tree after the holidays?

A: Yes, but prepare the hole before the ground freezes and amend the loose soil as you dig. Choose a tree with a tight root-ball and wrap it in plastic to keep it moist while indoors. Keep the tree in a cool room for no more than a week and plant it as soon as possible, mulching and watering well.

Q: Why does the bark of young trees crack and how can it be prevented?

A: Sunscald, or vertical cracking, occurs on the southwest side of the trunk due to rapid freezing after warm, sunny winter days. Young trees are more prone to sunscald because of their thin bark, which can lead to disease and insect infestations. Prevent sunscald by wrapping the trunk in a protective covering for the winter, such as expandable white plastic tree wraps available at garden centers.

Q: What causes some holly plants to produce berries while others do not?

A: Holly plants are either male or female, with only the female plants producing berries. For berries to form, a nearby male plant that produces pollen is required to pollinate the female plant. Although some species can pollinate other species, it is generally necessary to have both a male and a female of the same type. Lack of sunlight where the female is planted or severe drought during berry formation can also prevent fruit production.

Q: Can trees be transplanted from the woods to a yard?

A: While it is possible to transplant trees from the woods, the success rate is low. The roots of forest trees are often entangled with other nearby trees, with either wide-spreading shallow roots or a deep taproot, depending on the species. The tree is also already adapted to the woods’ environment. The shock of transplanting and root loss during transplantation often lead to the death of the tree. Nursery-grown trees have a better success rate as they have been tended to encourage concentrated root development through root pruning.

Q: Can road salt be harming the shrubs at the end of my driveway?

A: Salt toxicity is common in areas where deicing salts are used in winter. The most severe damage occurs where the salt is applied, near roads and walkways. The plants will display yellowish foliage, weak growth, and general dieback. It is recommended to wash salt residue from the plants with a hose and leach the salt from the soil by soaking the beds. Avoid using salts around the home, and instead use fertilizers that will not harm nearby plants but can safely melt ice.

Q: Is staking necessary for newly planted trees?

A: Staking may be necessary if the crown of the tree is relatively large compared to the size of the root ball to prevent tilting as the tree settles. Ensure that the root ball is firm and secure on the soil base. Use flat plastic guy string or wire covered in an old garden hose to tie the tree securely without cutting or wounding the bark. Remove the stakes and wires as soon as the tree roots become established. Evergreen trees typically do not require staking.

Want to learn more about growing flower gardens, houseplants, or vegetable gardens? Check out:

• Gardening
• Gardening Tips

FAQ

1. What is the best way to keep weeds out of my garden?

One of the best ways to keep weeds out of your garden is to use a combination of mulching and hand-pulling. Mulching helps to suppress weed growth by blocking sunlight and preventing seeds from germinating. Hand-pulling is a great way to remove weeds that do manage to grow. You can also use herbicides, but be sure to read the labels carefully and follow the instructions closely.

2. How often should I water my plants?

The amount of water your plants need will depend on several factors, including the type of plant, the soil type, and the climate in your area. In general, most plants need about an inch of water per week. However, it’s important to water deeply and infrequently, rather than shallowly and frequently.

3. What is the best way to fertilize my garden?

The best way to fertilize your garden will depend on the specific needs of your plants. In general, organic fertilizers are a good choice because they provide nutrients slowly over time and help to improve the soil. You can also use synthetic fertilizers, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully to avoid over-fertilizing.

4. How can I tell if my soil is healthy?

Healthy soil should be rich in organic matter, have a good balance of nutrients, and be free of contaminants. You can test your soil using a soil test kit, which will tell you the pH level, nutrient levels, and other important information about your soil. If your soil is lacking in nutrients, you can amend it with organic matter, compost, or fertilizer.

5. What is the best way to control pests in my garden?

The best way to control pests in your garden is to use a combination of methods, including natural predators, physical barriers, and insecticidal soaps or sprays. You can also use companion planting to help deter pests, such as planting marigolds to repel aphids.

6. How can I attract pollinators to my garden?

To attract pollinators to your garden, you should plant a variety of flowering plants that bloom at different times throughout the growing season. You can also provide nesting sites for bees by leaving areas of bare soil or installing a bee hotel. Avoid using pesticides that can harm pollinators.

7. When is the best time to prune my trees and shrubs?

The best time to prune trees and shrubs will depend on the specific plant. In general, it’s best to prune in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. This will help to stimulate new growth and promote healthy growth throughout the growing season.

8. How can I prevent disease in my plants?

The best way to prevent disease in your plants is to practice good garden sanitation. This includes removing infected plant material, disinfecting tools and equipment, and rotating crops to prevent the buildup of soil-borne pathogens. You can also choose disease-resistant varieties when planting.

9. What is the best way to propagate plants?

The best way to propagate plants will depend on the specific plant. Some plants can be propagated from seeds, while others can be propagated from stem cuttings or division. It’s important to follow proper propagation techniques and to use clean tools and equipment to prevent the spread of disease.

10. How can I create a low-maintenance garden?

To create a low-maintenance garden, you should choose plants that are well-suited to your climate and soil type. You can also use mulch to suppress weed growth, install a drip irrigation system to conserve water, and choose plants that require minimal pruning or deadheading.

11. What should I do with my garden in the fall?

In the fall, it’s important to clean up your garden and prepare it for the winter. This includes removing dead plant material, mulching around trees and shrubs, and planting bulbs for spring. You should also protect tender plants from frost by covering them with blankets or burlap.