Painting Your House: A Guide

Home renovation can be a daunting task, especially when it comes to painting the exterior of your house. However, instead of a complete paint job, regular maintenance and repairs can enhance the appearance of your home and extend the life of the paint job for several years. Whether you are planning to paint a porch, an outbuilding, or just one side of your house, the basic process remains the same.

To begin, you need to prep and clean the surface, decide on the type of paint, and apply it. Late spring or early fall days are ideal for painting, as long as the weather is dry and not too sunny. Extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, can damage the paint job. Before you start, inspect your house carefully to identify and address any potential causes of paint failure.

Troubleshooting Exterior Paint: There are several exterior paint problems, such as blistering or chalking. Check out this useful guide for troubleshooting these issues.

In this article, we will cover the basics of exterior painting, starting with how to handle various paint problems. Peeling, which can be caused by painting over wet wood or moisture within the house, can be remedied by using latex primer and paint. Alligatoring, where the paint shrinks into individual islands, can be fixed by scraping off the old paint, sanding the surface, and repainting it. Blistering, which occurs when paint rises from the surface and forms blisters, can be due to moisture or improper painting. Wrinkling happens when the paint is too thick and forms a surface film, and can be corrected by sanding the wrinkled area smooth and painting it with the proper consistency. Chalking, or paint with a dusty surface, can be caused by a too-porous surface or an inferior paint, and can be washed down and repainted with a non-chalking paint. Mildew, a moldy growth that appears where dampness and shade prevail, can be killed with a fungicide before repainting. Using a paintbrush incorrectly can create running sags, which can be corrected by sanding and repainting the surface evenly. Paint that won’t dry can be remedied by sanding and repainting the surface with a fresh coat.

To smooth out scraped areas, wrap sandpaper around a wooden block. For larger areas, use an electric orbital sander in an up and down or back and forth motion to remove old paint and rough edges. Avoid using an electric disc or belt sander as they can leave swirls or dips in the wood. For heavy paint deposits, an electric paint remover can be used to heat and scrape off the paint. However, liquid paint removers should only be used as a last resort as they can be expensive and messy. Once all loose paint has been removed, apply an appropriate primer to distressed areas before applying finishing paint. Other prep work includes removing rust stains, repairing leaks, replacing loose caulking and split shingles, filling cracks, and scrubbing off mildew. To make painting easier, accessories such as light fixtures and downspouts should be taken down, cleaned, and painted separately.

To prepare for painting the exterior of your house, you can typically finish all the necessary steps in one day or over a weekend. However, if you’re only painting a small area like a porch or outbuilding, it may take only an hour. If you’re using latex paint, you can start painting the following day. But if you’re using solvent-based paint, make sure to wait several days until all washed surfaces are completely dry before applying.

The first step is to wash the exterior of your house, which not only removes dirt and grime but also helps you identify any surface flaws that need attention. Depending on the level of dirt and the size of your house, there are two ways to approach this task. For an average-sized house, use a garden hose with a carwash brush attachment to clean large areas. For stubborn dirt, use a scrub brush or sponge with warm water and strong household detergent. Always work from top to bottom and rinse all areas thoroughly with water.

©2006 Publications International, Ltd. To remove caked-on dirt, use a scrub brush or a sponge and a pail of warm water with a good, strong household detergent in it. Work from the top down and rinse all areas where you scrubbed.

If you need to clean a big house quickly or a smaller one more efficiently, consider renting a high-pressure spray cleaner. This device connects to your home’s water supply and emits a powerful jet of water at a pressure of approximately 600 pounds per square inch. Equipped with a handheld wand that has a trigger-activated nozzle, it can remove stubborn dirt, mildew, stains, and dried sea-salt spray. The pressure is strong enough to remove peeling paint, but be careful not to hold the nozzle too close to the surface, as it can cause damage. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and wear protective clothing and goggles.

When using the spray cleaner from a ladder, be cautious as the force of the spray could knock you off. It is better to practice at ground level first. Some machines have separate containers for cleaning or anti-mildew solutions, but they may not be necessary due to the powerful spray. If you do use a solution, rinse the surface with clean water afterward.

If you notice popped nails or rusting nail heads during the cleaning process, use sandpaper or steel wool to clean the nail heads. For clapboard siding, use a nail set to recess the nail head approximately ⅛ inch below the surface of the wood. Apply a coat of rust-inhibiting primer and let it dry before filling the nail hole with putty or spackle. For flathead nails, sand the heads until they’re shiny and coat with primer. Finally, use a rope to tie trees out of the way while you’re painting.

Tips for Painting around Shrubs

If you have trees, bushes, or ornamental shrubs growing close to your house, they can interfere with your painting job. You’ll need to trim any branches that hang over the house or touch the walls. For evergreen trees and tall bushes close to the house, wrap them in canvas drop cloths. Tie a rope around the trunk halfway up and pull the top out and away from the house, tying the other end of the rope to a stake in the yard. You can also cover smaller shrubs, flower beds, sidewalks, and driveways with drop cloths to avoid paint drips.

Calculating the Amount of Paint Needed

The size of your house, the condition of the walls, the type of coating you choose, and the method of application will determine how much paint you need to purchase. Exterior walls made of narrow lap siding, shingles or shakes, masonry, or stucco may require 10 to 50 percent more paint than smooth, flat walls. Airless sprayers may need twice as much paint as brushes, rollers, or pads for the same surface area. If you run out of paint, you can buy more, or if you buy too much, stores may offer refunds for unopened gallons. However, with custom-colored paints, it may be challenging to find an exact match if you need more. Calculate your needs accurately and purchase an extra gallon of paint as a backup.

To estimate the amount of paint you need, measure the perimeter of your house and multiply it by the height, excluding gable ends. You can use a steel tape measure or twine to measure the house’s perimeter. If you’re using a different paint for the trim, subtract 21 square feet per door and 15 square feet per typical window. Divide the final result by the square-foot coverage on the paint can to determine how many gallons you need for one coat. For gabled houses, add two feet to the height for an estimate or measure the width of the gable wall and multiply it by its height and divide the total by two. For trim paint, use one gallon for every six gallons of wall paint. To be more precise, calculate the areas of doors, windows, and shutters. For gutters, one linear foot is equal to one square foot, so buy enough paint to cover the required length.

Now that you know how much paint to purchase, it’s time to start painting. Keep reading to learn more about painting siding and trim.

How to Paint Siding and Trim

A Guide to Exterior Paint Picking the right coating is crucial when painting your home. Read here for more information about exterior coatings for your house.

After completing the surface preparations, you are almost ready to apply a fresh coat of paint by brushing, rolling, or spraying it. To ensure consistency in paint color, mix all the paint in one or two large containers. Any leftover paint should be returned to the original cans and sealed.

Plan your painting session according to the location of the sun. Work in the shade after the sun has dried off the morning moisture. Avoid being caught by the setting sun while painting an exterior wall. To prevent lap marks, finish painting an entire course of siding across the house.

©2006 Publications International, Ltd. To paint the window and door casings, insert the brush into the joints and smooth out the paint.

Also, paint high places in horizontal sections across the top of the exterior wall. Do not lean away from an extension ladder or reach more than an arm’s length to either side. Paint one high section, move the ladder, and paint another, creating a painted band as you go. Repeat the process for the entire exterior wall. Lower the ladder and work on a lower section. Use an extension ladder, which should be placed on firm footing about one-quarter of its length from the foundation of the house. Ensure that it does not tilt to the left or right and check both extension hooks to ensure they are firmly locked on the supporting rungs. The two sections of the ladder should overlap at least three rungs. Be cautious of power lines while moving the ladder. Use an S-shape bucket hook to hang the paint bucket and free one hand while painting with the other.

If your house has dormers, paint them from the roof instead of a ladder. The ladder should reach at least 3 feet above the edge of the roof so you can step onto the roof without standing on the top rungs of the ladder.

©2006 Publications International, Ltd. A corner roller is useful for painting the undersides of shingles or clapboards.

When painting clapboard or shingles, it is important to pay attention to the areas around door and window casings. At the top of each casing, there is a drip cap or metal flashing that is tucked under the siding. It is essential to paint a tight seal between the metal and wood. For the sides of the casings, use a brush to get into the joints, and then smooth out the paint to seal them. A corner roller is a good option for casings and the undersides of siding laps. Before moving the ladder, check your work for drips, runs, thin areas, and missed spots.

Painting exterior trim is a slow process that takes a considerable amount of time, even if you use the same color as the siding. However, it is an essential step that will keep the house fresh and protect it from the elements for a long time. To make the job easier, work from the top down when painting exterior trim, starting with gables, dormers, eaves, and gutters, then second-story windows, porches and stairs, and foundations. Use a paint shield if you don’t want to mask around window panes and scrape off any spatters and drips later.

If you’ve replaced caulking around doors, windows, and joints, make sure it is dry before painting over it. Use enough paint to form a tight seal between the siding and trim to keep out moisture, wind, and insects. Paint exterior windows, sashes, sills, and jambs in the same order as the interior ones, working from the sashes out to the frames. Pay close attention to the windowsills as they are exposed to rain, snow, and dirt. If they look particularly weather-beaten, give them two or three coats of paint, including the underside edges.

Screens and storm windows should be removed and painted separately. If the screens have holes, mend them or replace the screening. If the screening is sound but needs painting, coat it first using a pad applicator, then paint the frame. Don’t forget to do both sides and all edges of screens and storms.

When painting an exterior door, remove the knobs, latch plates, and door knocker if possible. If possible, remove the door from its frame, lay it flat, and paint one side at a time, starting with recessed panels and then raised areas. Sand the bottom and top edges, then apply a thin coat of paint to keep out moisture and prevent rot. While the door is open or off its hinges, paint the jambs and the frame and give the wooden threshold a coat of urethane varnish. Do not paint the hinges.

To prepare galvanized metal gutters and downspouts for painting, use a wire brush to remove loose paint before priming and painting. When painting downspouts, apply the paint in the direction of the flutes to prevent drips and sags. For flat downspouts attached closely to the house, consider taking them down to paint. To waterproof gutters and seal small holes and joints, coat the inside with asphalt-base paint. Use a lamb’s wool mitten applicator instead of a trim brush to paint ornamental metal work and porch railings. This reusable applicator allows you to easily apply paint while holding onto a railing support. When done correctly, painting your house can last for many years.

FAQ

1. What materials do I need to paint a house?

To paint a house, you will need paint brushes, rollers, paint trays, sandpaper, drop cloths, painter’s tape, and of course, paint. The amount of paint will depend on the size of your house, so it’s best to measure the exterior walls to get an accurate estimate. You may also need a ladder or scaffolding if you’re painting higher areas.

2. Should I pressure wash the house before painting?

Yes, it’s important to pressure wash the exterior walls to remove any dirt, grime, or loose paint. This will ensure that the new paint adheres properly to the surface. Make sure to let the walls dry completely before starting to paint.

3. Do I need to prime the walls before painting?

It’s recommended to prime the walls before painting, especially if you’re changing the color or painting over a previously painted surface. Primer helps the paint adhere better and can also hide any stains or discoloration on the walls.

4. What’s the best way to paint the trim?

When painting the trim, use a smaller brush to get into the corners and edges. You may also want to use painter’s tape to protect any surfaces you don’t want to get paint on. It’s best to paint the trim before painting the walls, so you can easily go over any mistakes or drips with the wall paint.

5. How many coats of paint do I need?

It’s recommended to apply at least two coats of paint to ensure even coverage and a lasting finish. However, if you’re painting over a dark color with a lighter color, you may need to apply more coats to fully cover the old color.

6. Can I paint my house in cold weather?

It’s best to avoid painting your house in extremely cold weather, as the paint may not dry properly and could peel or crack. The ideal temperature for painting is between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

7. What’s the best type of paint to use for the exterior of a house?

When choosing paint for the exterior of your house, look for a durable, weather-resistant paint that will hold up well over time. Acrylic paints are a popular choice for their longevity and resistance to fading and cracking.

8. How long does it take to paint a house?

The time it takes to paint a house will depend on the size of the house, the number of coats needed, and the weather conditions. On average, it can take anywhere from several days to a week or more to paint the exterior of a house.

9. Should I hire a professional painter or do it myself?

It’s ultimately up to you to decide whether to hire a professional painter or do it yourself. If you have experience and feel confident in your abilities, you may be able to save money by doing it yourself. However, if you’re unsure or don’t have the necessary equipment, it may be worth it to hire a professional to ensure a high-quality finish.