Ways to Cut Your Home Energy Costs

Green Living

While there are many low-cost or free measures you can take to increase the energy efficiency of your home, there are also times when investing in certain upgrades can help reduce your utility bills. Think of this as “investing in energy savings.”

For example, if your refrigerator is more than 15 years old, replacing it with a newer model could save you at least $5 a month, or $60 a year, on your energy bill. If the new refrigerator costs $600, you would be getting a 10 percent return on your investment – much higher than what you would earn from savings, checking accounts, or certificates of deposit. Plus, the money you save on energy is not subject to state or federal income tax. Investing in energy efficiency can earn you a tax-free return on a moderate investment, which is better than leaving your money in a bank account with low returns that are also taxed.

Investing in projects like upgrading windows and plumbing can also save you hundreds of dollars on utility bills and pay off for the life of the house. This article will provide tips on how to update heating and cooling equipment, major appliances, and windows to improve energy efficiency and save money. We’ll also discuss how to find a reputable contractor for these projects. Let’s start by assessing the efficiency of your current heating and cooling systems.

Determining the Payoff for Heating Upgrades

With rising energy prices, you may be considering purchasing a new furnace, boiler, or air conditioning compressor, but is it worth the investment? The answer is that the higher energy prices go, the shorter the “payback” time will be for purchasing new, more efficient systems.

However, it’s impossible to determine exactly how much you could save by upgrading due to factors such as fluctuating heating fuel prices and geographic location. It’s also important to consider how frugally you already live in your home.

Calculating Your Current Costs

To get an idea of how much you could save by upgrading your heating and cooling equipment, you can calculate your potential savings using your previous utility bills. Although this calculation is based on last year’s fuel costs and is not exact, it can give you a rough estimate of your potential savings and help you decide if the investment is worth considering.

To determine whether upgrading to more efficient mechanical equipment is worth it, the first step is to calculate your base load rate. This involves finding the average amount spent on gas and electricity during non-heating and non-cooling months. Multiply this figure by 12 to get your yearly base load rate. Next, add up your bills for the entire year and subtract your base load rate to find out how much you spent on heating and cooling. Efficiency ratings, expressed as AFUE percentages, can help you determine the potential savings of upgrading. For example, if you replace a 75-percent-efficient furnace with a 95-percent-efficient one, you could save approximately $146 per year. However, increasing fuel prices could lead to even greater savings and a shorter payback period. Homeowners living in colder areas may see faster payback periods, while those in warmer areas may benefit more from high-efficiency air-conditioning units.

About 75% of residential heating in the United States is provided by forced-air systems. The average age of these furnaces is 17 years, with 25% exceeding 20 years. The typical yearly utility bill is around $1,500, making an upgrade worth considering for those with older furnaces. In the following section, we will discuss the operation of furnaces and the benefits of newer, more efficient models.

Replacing an old furnace is becoming necessary due to the increase in AFUE efficiency ratings. From the 1950s to the early 1980s, furnaces had an efficiency rating of about 65%. This meant that 35% of the produced heat was lost up the fluepipe. However, with advancements in technology, some furnaces now boast 97% efficiency. Furnaces are now required to yield a minimum of 78% efficiency based on national standards. Furnaces with an efficiency rating between 78% and 95% can be purchased, depending on the features required and budget.

Furnaces can be divided into two categories based on how they function. Lower-efficiency furnaces draw combustion air from the room, while high-efficiency furnaces draw combustion air directly from outside the house. Standard-efficiency furnaces draw air from within the house, which creates dry conditions, drafts, and inefficiency. This is because the incoming cold air has to be heated by the furnace, which demands additional air to replace the air being burned up and vented outside. In contrast, a sealed-combustion furnace draws its combustion air from outside the house via a PVC pipe. This results in greater efficiency, fewer drafts, less dry air, and a more comfortable house. However, building codes require an air-intake pipe to provide outdoor air near fuel-burning heating and water-heating equipment. The intake is not as controlled as with sealed combustion units, and many older homes with equipment installed before the code requirement lack an air-intake pipe.

Evaluating Furnace Speeds

Although 95% efficiency furnaces provide homeowners with the greatest energy savings, lower AFUE-rated units have also been updated to enhance efficiency and comfort. Many sub-90% newer furnaces have a two-stage or variable speed burners feature.

Older furnaces had only one firing capacity, where the burner was either on or off. On a chilly day, the furnace may turn on for only a few minutes and then turn off again after quickly raising the indoor temperature. This method of running a furnace is not efficient and can be compared to starting a car to drive for a few blocks, then shutting it off and starting it again to drive for a few more blocks. Cars and furnaces run more efficiently at their optimum operating temperatures.

Sensors are used to control the fuel flow rate through the burner in two-stage and variable-speed furnaces. On chilly days, the furnace runs at the low setting for a longer period of time, allowing it to operate at the most efficient temperature without the inefficient stops and starts created by rapid temperature changes. On cold days, it burns at full capacity to accommodate the more demanding heat load. Low settings are used approximately 90% of the time in most two-stage and variable-speed furnaces.

Running the burner and blower at low settings for longer periods of time distributes air evenly in rooms and pushes more air through the furnace filter, resulting in cleaner air and cost savings.

Silent Operation

In recent years, furnace manufacturers have made furnaces quieter in addition to making them more efficient. Any newer model will be quieter than one ten years old or older. Sound-absorbing material lines the interiors of the metal cabinets, and blower-fan blades are engineered and balanced to reduce noise.

Two-stage and variable-speed furnaces are especially quiet. A burner firing at low capacity produces less noise than one firing at full throttle, and the blower-fan speed can be reduced to integrate with the lower heat output. The combination reduces the sound of the air rushing from the heat registers.

Other Factors to Consider

Furnaces have become more complex over the years, offering greater comfort and efficiency. Instead of simple controls and moving parts that could be repaired or replaced by anyone, the furnaces on the market today are run by computers. If your furnace breaks down, a highly trained technician is required instead of a simple service call to a local furnace installer.

Replacing a computer motherboard in a modern furnace can cost hundreds of dollars instead of the simple $20 part replacement of the past. However, new furnaces are reliable and durable, and most offer generous warranties.

Replacing your boiler or air-conditioning system can also reduce your utility bills. The next section provides tips on replacing your boiler or AC.

Replacing the Boiler and Air-Conditioning Systems

New gas- and oil-fired boilers are smaller, more efficient, quieter, and more sophisticated, with some having AFUE ratings similar to those on furnaces. Some boilers also have variable-capacity burners.

High-end boilers have a sealed combustion system that eliminates the need to burn house air and vent it outside when the burner fires. Sensors located outside can record the temperature and adjust the boiler’s water temperature accordingly. Such features increase the cost of installation and complexity of the system, but also make it more energy-efficient than previous models.

Replacing an old furnace or boiler depends on various factors, such as the size of the house, climate, and the price of gas or oil. If you have a large house, live in a cold climate, or pay a high price for gas or oil, a higher-efficiency model is a better choice. However, if your house is smaller or you live in a temperate climate, a two-stage or variable-speed furnace or a simpler boiler might be a better option.

It is important to consider the actual cost of heating your home, not just your entire energy bill. The savings difference between an 80-percent and a 95-percent furnace may not be significant enough to justify the larger investment if your heating bill is relatively low.

It is also worth checking whether your utility company or state energy office offers a rebate toward higher-efficiency heating and cooling equipment. The rebate amount can sometimes make up the difference between a lower and a higher-efficiency model.

If you decide to install a new furnace or boiler, make sure to hire a qualified installer who can do a thorough energy audit of your house and recommend the ideal size furnace or boiler based on factors such as window size, insulation, and square footage of habitable space. It is also important to inform the installer if you plan to increase the size of the house or heating space in the future so that the heating system can be sized accordingly.

Upgrading Your Air Conditioning System

The efficiency of air conditioning compressors is measured by their seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) numbers. The higher the SEER number, the more efficient the system. Federal regulations now require air conditioners to have a minimum SEER rating of 13. If you have an older air conditioning compressor and a large home, upgrading to a higher SEER unit could save you money in the long run.

For example, a 10-SEER air conditioner requires 1,200 watts of power to produce one ton of cooling, while a 15-SEER unit would only require about 800 watts. If you have a three-ton capacity air conditioner and your electricity costs 12 cents per kilowatt-hour, running a 10-SEER unit continuously for an hour would cost about 43 cents, while running a 15-SEER unit for the same amount of time would cost 28.8 cents. Over the course of a summer, this difference could add up to significant savings.

Newer air conditioning units also tend to run more quietly than older models, which can be important for outdoor activities or if you have close neighbors. Additionally, some newer units are equipped with two-stage compressors and variable-speed blowers, which can improve comfort and energy efficiency.

Proper installation and sizing are also important for maintaining the efficiency of your air conditioning system.

In the past, air conditioning installers would often put in larger units to avoid complaints about insufficient cooling. However, this resulted in homes that cooled quickly but had poor dehumidification, making them feel cold and clammy. Nowadays, installers use computer software to determine the appropriate size of the air conditioner for a particular home, taking into account factors such as insulation, window size and placement, and geographical location. Two-stage and variable-speed A/C systems are also used to provide the right amount of cooling and dehumidification.

When it comes to conserving energy and saving money, homeowners should also consider their plumbing. Heating water accounts for 20% of a household’s energy bill. Tankless water heaters are a more energy-efficient option compared to traditional tank-type heaters because they have little to no standby heat loss. They also provide an endless supply of hot water. Newer models of tankless heaters are even more efficient, with variable-capacity burners and sparking devices for ignition. Before purchasing a tankless water heater, homeowners should consider various aspects.

The installation of a tankless water heater in a home is not a simple task. It is not possible to replace a standard tank-type water heater with a tankless one easily. The primary concern is to ensure that the new unit is sized correctly. Tankless water heaters are rated based on their ability to increase the temperature of water coming into the unit at a specific flow rate. If a unit is undersized, it may not be able to deliver enough water to serve various purposes simultaneously, resulting in low water volume. In addition, if multiple people in a house use hot water at the same time, they may have to share the hot water coming out of the water heater, which is often insufficient. To avoid these issues, it is crucial to purchase a tankless water heater with enough capacity or accept the limitations of a smaller model.

Another issue with tankless water heaters is that they need a specific flow rate through the unit to activate the switch that turns on the burner. If the water flow is less than a half gallon per minute, the burner will not fire, and there will be no hot water. Furthermore, tankless heaters take 5-15 seconds to heat water to the desired temperature, which can be a problem in large homes where there is already a long wait for hot water.

Despite these limitations, many tankless water heaters are small and designed to hang on a wall, freeing up valuable floor space. However, if you plan to install a tankless water heater, you may face gas piping, fluepipe, and electrical issues. Gas units require a larger-than-normal flue to vent combustion by-products created by the burner’s firing, which makes it impossible to connect the flue to the chimney where the old water-heater flue used to go.

New tankless water heaters have the ability to vent through a sidewall via a plastic PVC pipe, which eliminates the need to increase the size of an existing fluepipe. However, if an old tank-type water heater is sharing its flue with the furnace, removing the old flue pipe to install a sidewall-vented tankless water heater could result in having to downsize the furnace flue to safely handle the furnace-only flue gases. Installing a tankless water heater requires careful consideration, and it’s not an ideal do-it-yourself project, despite being beneficial for energy efficiency in most cases.

Due to the tankless water heater’s large burner capacity, gas piping may need to be replaced with a larger size to deliver the required amount of gas. Additionally, most tankless water heaters require electricity to operate, which may require adding a new receptacle within six feet of the planned installation. If there is a power outage, the water heater won’t work, although some of the newer models can operate without outside power. Descaling is necessary for the unit’s heat exchanger in hard-water areas, using a mild acid liquid, but the service life of the unit should be 20 years or more.

The initial cost of a tankless water heater is usually several times more expensive than a storage-type water heater, and extra funds are often required for installation expenses. However, investing in a tankless water heater can result in energy savings over its lifetime, especially if you use a lot of hot water and can tolerate some of its quirks.

When purchasing appliances for your home, you can also consider energy efficiency. The federal government introduced an energy-efficiency rating program in 1992 called “Energy Star,” which is now jointly administered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Department of Energy (DOE). The Energy Star website provides ratings and tips on improving energy performance. Energy Star-qualified appliances exceed federal energy-efficiency standards by 10 to 50 percent, resulting in noticeable energy and money savings. Although Energy Star-rated appliances and electronic devices are usually expensive, the extra cost is worth it due to the savings over the product’s lifetime.

Energy-efficient household appliances, which are Energy Star-rated, are beneficial for homes that use them frequently. For bigger homes or those located in extreme climate areas, such as the north or south, using Energy Star-rated heating and cooling equipment can result in savings. An energy-saving tip that can be applied anywhere is to get rid of old refrigerators or freezers in the garage or basement, which can cost up to $25 a month to operate and have an inefficient compressor that works harder in hot environments.

Front-loading washing machines are more commonly used in Europe and in commercial settings in the US due to expensive energy sources and smaller living spaces. They are now replacing top-loading washing machines in many homes due to their energy-saving features, such as using one-third to one-half less water than conventional top loaders. This results in less water needing to be heated, leading to energy savings and water conservation. Some front-loading washing machines have a heating element that can be used for special purposes, like sanitizing baby wear or washing bedding during cold and flu season.

Front-loading washing machines also have a gentler washing action and use high-speed rinse and water-extraction cycles, resulting in cleaner clothes and less time needed for drying. This results in savings and less fabric wear and tear. They can also be stacked, saving floor space and making them more convenient to use. Manufacturers of top-loading machines are now offering models with similar features to compete with front loaders. However, some require special low-sudsing detergents to function properly.

To determine the best washing machine for your needs, it is recommended to visit an appliance store or manufacturer’s website. Dryers are not rated by the Energy Star program, but using the automatic-drying feature instead of a timed cycle can save energy and prolong the life of clothes. When choosing a dishwasher, consider your needs and opt for a standard size if you generate a lot of dirty dishes. Running a compact dishwasher multiple times can cost more in terms of hot-water usage and electricity. It is also important to choose a dishwasher with a heating element to avoid scalding hazards and energy waste. Windows are a common culprit of energy waste in homes, so it is important to choose energy-efficient replacements. Most new windows have at least two panes of insulated glass to increase their insulative value. Some manufacturers even use gases like argon and krypton to improve insulation.

The window assembly can have a thin, almost invisible coating of Low-e metallic oxides that can be adjusted to provide various properties to the window, such as improved heat retention or reduction of solar heat. The sash holding the glazing is also essential to the overall thermal performance of the window. Materials with low heat conductance, such as wood, hollow or insulation-filled vinyl, or fiberglass, help to minimize the transfer of cold inside and heat outside.

These improvements have made both replacement and original windows more energy-efficient than ever before, resulting in increased comfort. Energy-efficient glazing keeps the inside pane of glass warmer, reflecting body heat back inside and making people feel more comfortable while also saving energy.

From an energy-efficiency point of view, the most important improvement to modern windows is the enhancement of weather stripping, which stops air from infiltrating. Leaky windows waste energy and make the house drafty. New windows, if installed correctly, won’t leak air and will save energy.

The nonprofit National Fenestration Rating Council rates some manufacturers’ windows based on air leakage, U-factor, visual transmittance, and solar-heat-gain coefficient. Labels on windows rated by the Council provide information to select different windows to meet different criteria for each area of the house.

Proper installation is critical to maximizing energy efficiency and satisfaction with the windows purchased. Window installation is complex, and any part of the job left to chance can result in water leaks, dysfunctional opening and closing, poor energy performance, and air leakage. This is particularly true for replacement windows, where old materials must be incorporated into the new installation.

Upgrading Old Windows

Installing new windows in an older house can greatly improve its energy efficiency, especially if the old windows are in poor condition. The amount of savings you can expect on your utility bills will depend on the quality of the new windows and the installation, as well as how leaky the old windows are. But aside from the energy savings, new windows can make your home feel cozier, quieter, warmer, and more secure.

By upgrading your windows, you can make your house feel larger and more comfortable. If your old windows were drafty, you may have avoided them in the winter, limiting your living space. With new windows, you can sit comfortably near exterior walls, effectively increasing your square footage. New windows can also block out noise, making your home more peaceful and relaxing.

If you’re tired of climbing ladders to clean your windows, new windows offer a tilt-in sash feature that allows you to easily clean the exterior glass. This feature is not only convenient but also safer than climbing a ladder.

Assessing Old Windows

While new windows offer many benefits, there are situations where repairing or restoring old windows may be a better option. If you own a house with historic features, replacing your original windows may not be the best choice. Architecturally significant windows can be expensive to reproduce, and new windows may look out of place in a historic home. Instead, it may be worth restoring the existing windows to make them as energy-efficient as possible.

Old windows often require scraping and painting, glazing compound replacement, and repairing broken sash cords or chains. If they’re in poor condition, they may need more extensive repairs, such as re-gluing joints, epoxy or wood repairs, and glass replacement. While these repairs can be time-consuming, they can help maintain the historic integrity of your home.

To improve the thermal performance of old windows, weather stripping can be added around the window sash and along the meeting rail between double-hung windows. Draft-blocking devices can also be installed to reduce air infiltration through cord or chain holes. For the best efficiency, storm windows can be added to the outside or inside of the house. With proper installation of weather stripping and storm windows, old windows can perform almost as well as new ones. However, restoring old windows requires high labor costs. It’s recommended to hire professionals or do the repairs yourself if you’re handy. Well-maintained older windows can last for more than 100 years, while modern windows are unlikely to last that long. When hiring contractors for any work on your home, it’s essential to get at least three estimates. Recommendations from friends or colleagues who have hired contractors for similar work can be helpful, but keep in mind that a contractor’s performance can vary from client to client. Hiring contractors can be risky, and anything can happen between the initial contract and the final billing.

To increase the chances of a successful experience with a hired contractor, it is important to do some research first. Start by contacting your local or state building regulation office to find out the licenses and qualifications necessary for the type of work you want done, as well as insurance requirements. Surprisingly, homeowners may be responsible for any injuries that occur on the job site if the contractor’s worker’s compensation policy does not cover the worker. It is critical to ensure that any contractors being considered have the necessary qualifications, licenses, and insurance. Once you have narrowed down your options, meet with the remaining candidates to determine if you can work effectively together, as close communication is necessary for longer or more disruptive projects. Make sure to get written estimates that include a comprehensive summary of the work, material specifications, and timetable. Payment schedules should also be included in the final contract, and it is common for contractors to ask for an upfront payment to begin work, although these payments are negotiable. The contract should reserve the homeowner’s right to withhold final payment until the job is completed to their satisfaction. Investing in energy efficiency through upgrades to heating and cooling systems, appliances, and windows is a wise decision, and it is acceptable to hire professional help as long as the right contractor is found. By following these guidelines, homeowners can make informed decisions that will ultimately save them money on home energy.

How to Reduce Phantom Power

Phantom power, which is also known as idle current, vampire power, or wall wart, is the extra energy that your electronic devices and appliances draw from the grid even when they are not in use. This may seem insignificant, but it can add up over time and account for up to 10% of your home’s electricity use.

Devices like cell phone chargers, digital cameras, and power tools continue to draw energy even when they are not in use. Appliances such as televisions, computer monitors, and DVD players also draw power when they are plugged in. To reduce phantom power, it is important to unplug your devices when they are not in use, but it can be a hassle to crawl behind the TV every time you are done watching.

One solution is to use power strips and plug bundled devices like the TV, DVD player, and DVR, or the computer, monitor, and printer into the same strip. This will make it easier to unplug all devices at once, reducing phantom power in your home. There are also devices designed specifically to combat phantom energy, which can help to save you money on your electricity bill.

FAQ

1.

What are some simple ways to save money on home energy?

You can save money on home energy by turning off lights and electronics when they are not in use, washing clothes in cold water, using a programmable thermostat to regulate temperature, and sealing any air leaks in your home.

2.

How much can I save on my energy bill by making these changes?

The amount you save on your energy bill will vary depending on your current usage and the changes you make. However, it is estimated that making these changes can save the average household up to 25% on their energy bill.

3.

What is the best temperature to set my thermostat to save money on energy?

The best temperature to set your thermostat to save money on energy is 68 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60-62 degrees Fahrenheit at night. By lowering the temperature by just a few degrees, you can save a significant amount on your energy bill.

4.

What are some energy-efficient appliances I can purchase?

You can purchase energy-efficient appliances such as refrigerators, washing machines, and dryers. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label, which indicates that they meet energy efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

5.

What are some ways to save energy in the kitchen?

You can save energy in the kitchen by using a microwave or toaster oven instead of a traditional oven, using lids on pots and pans to reduce cooking time, and using the dishwasher only when it is full.

6.

Is it worth investing in solar panels to save on home energy?

Investing in solar panels can be a good long-term investment for saving on home energy. However, it can be expensive upfront, so it is important to conduct research and determine if it is right for your home and budget.

7.

What are some DIY projects I can do to save on energy?

You can seal air leaks around doors and windows, install weather stripping, and insulate your attic to save on energy. These DIY projects are relatively inexpensive and can save you money on your energy bill.

8.

What should I do if my energy bill is still high after making these changes?

If your energy bill is still high after making these changes, you should consider having an energy audit performed on your home. An energy audit can identify any areas where you may be losing energy and provide recommendations for further energy-saving measures.